So I have been thinking about lifting my '98 Blazer and I had a few questions/thoughts on the matter.

I was thinking I wanted to fit 31" tires comfortably. At maximum I'd like 33's. My initial thought for the rear was to just cut off the spring perches and re-weld them ON TOP of the axle, instead of having them below it like they are. It would net considerable lift, it's not overkill is it? I have not really measured anything out, but my guesstimations say it would be good. Would this be advised or should I just go for longer shackles?

I was wondering about the front to, if I were to lift the rear by re-welding the perches on top of the axle, could I get enough lift out of it by simply cranking the tortion bars up? Would I have to buy keys to get the desired height out of the front to match the rear? I'm trying to avoid dumping a ton of money into a legitimate lift.

Now I know that everyone says the t-bar crank will reduce ride quality and put more stress on the front end.. but how severe are we talking? Is this a matter of replacing the ball joints every 5,000 miles? 20,000? 50,000? I'm just curious because everyone seems to emphasis on the fact that it puts stress on the CV's and balljoints.

With the amount of lift gained from doing the t-bar crank and whatever is decided on the rear, would I need to buy longer shocks or brake lines? Will the steering itself be effected? When I lifted my F350 12" I obviously had to replace the shocks and brake lines, as well as the front drive shaft. Am I good on all of these for this small of a lift on the blazer?


I think that's all the questions I have for now.
Thanks for reading.

 

Well you could of done a search and answered all your questions. But you can get 2" shackles for the rear crank your tbars some and you'll clear 31s. 33s you have to use one of the pricey kits unless your handy and can figure out another way then I'm sure everyone here would love you. Next time use the search button because the questions about the lifts are ALL over this forum already.

 

IMHO if you want 33's then do it from the start. I would do a SAS on the front and flip the rear springs to the top.

 

You could do that as well. For me SAS isn't practicle as I won't harldy use my Jimmy offroad that hardcore.. If that makes sense. But if I see a fun place to go I might go check it out. I just want 31s simple easy cut and dry. Anyways use the search button man there's tons of stuff on this site about lifting already. Sorry if I came off as a jackass earlier but in my short time here I've seen the same questions asked 200 times over.

 

I know what you mean, in the threads I've read I see a question, and then I see "Search." I think it would help to cut down if someone just posted a link. Cochran07, I did search. If they've been answered so many times you know the answer.. right? I never heard mention of the shocks or anything. And I had some more in-depth questions then others. I'm still curious how much stress is put on these things up front.

I have not found ANY threads about re-welding the spring perches and trying to match the front with the perch. And to save me the trouble of figuring out this search system with my crappy dialup, would you mind running a search for me and telling me if I need to worry about extended shocks?

I really don't think an SAS would be practical for me either. How weak are these CV axles anyways? Haha. I'm running one tons on my Ford.. but I also have 37" swampers lol.

Maybe it would be easier to just run with the shackles and t-bar crank.

 

As fow were im not sure completely. But you zhould only go about 1.5 to 2 inches. On the tbars and soa will net you around 5 inches. Your brake lines will be fine shocks you. Can get away with stock shocks but its never a bad idea to replace them.

 

You can't match the front with the back if you do the springs on top. At least, not cheaply. The $1-2k Trailmaster and Superlift kits drop the front axle the necessary 4-6" to even up with the back. I've never heard anyone mention longer brake lines with the smaller lifts but I imagine the larger, more expensive kits require them.

I've read of some issues with steering column interference with the firewall with a 3" body lift but I'm not sure if it affects all trucks or just a specific year range. You will probably need longer shocks. When I installed my shackles, the shocks stopped the axle from dropping low enough. That would definitely affect wheel flex/travel when offroad.

Hope that sort of answers some of your questions, if you did a tbar/shackle cranks and a body lift you should be able to comfortably fit 31's. I've seen a few people on various forums fit 33's with that combo (and some heavy fender hacking)

 

mdehoogh that was said perfectly.

 

mdehoogh, thanks for all that. The last thing I want to do to this is cut the fenders. The body is in pretty good shape still, no dents or anything and I'd hate to cut it up just to fit tires.

I will keep all this in mind. I need to find some pictures of a 3" body lift. That sounds like it might look a little funny. The frame already hangs down below the body, pretty noticeably lol.

 

there isnt a 3 inch body lift made for our year trucks you would have to piece it together

now you can get away by cranking the t-bars and shackles without replacing break lines and shocks

i have 2 inch BL and 2 inch t-bar and shackles and havent had to replace any break lines or shocks i just have to replace my original upper ball joints but thats not a big deal

if you would like shoot me a PM and i can give you a quote on shackles if you want to buy from me or you can spend the hundred and something from a online vendor your choice