My lift idea(parting 1 together)
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 260

get this http://www.shop.synergyoffroad.com/S...ZR2-3103-6.htm $134
2 in body lift $50-$150
lift shackles $50
add a leaf or maybe replace the 2nd leaf in the pack with the 2nd one from a suburban free-$75
total: min $234 max $359
4in total lift in front and 3-5 in rear
replace t bars with zr2 bars(maybe)
what do you think?
2 in body lift $50-$150
lift shackles $50
add a leaf or maybe replace the 2nd leaf in the pack with the 2nd one from a suburban free-$75
total: min $234 max $359
4in total lift in front and 3-5 in rear
replace t bars with zr2 bars(maybe)
what do you think?
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 292

get this http://www.shop.synergyoffroad.com/S...ZR2-3103-6.htm $134
2 in body lift $50-$150
lift shackles $50
add a leaf or maybe replace the 2nd leaf in the pack with the 2nd one from a suburban free-$75
total: min $234 max $359
4in total lift in front and 3-5 in rear
replace t bars with zr2 bars(maybe)
what do you think?
2 in body lift $50-$150
lift shackles $50
add a leaf or maybe replace the 2nd leaf in the pack with the 2nd one from a suburban free-$75
total: min $234 max $359
4in total lift in front and 3-5 in rear
replace t bars with zr2 bars(maybe)
what do you think?
#3
x2 on the t-crank...just keep it around 1.5" and you'll be fine.
just watch for the cv boots to slip off with the new angle your gonna be putting them at with the t-crank.
easy to fix....just a mess to clean up.
all else sounds like a sound plan to me....its what i did
just watch for the cv boots to slip off with the new angle your gonna be putting them at with the t-crank.
easy to fix....just a mess to clean up.
all else sounds like a sound plan to me....its what i did
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 260

what about the upper control arms?
anyplace to order just those?
anyplace to order just those?
#5
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Athabasca AB
Posts: 11

Ya, I was also looking into lifting my blazer, kinda the same idea. But I was wondering about the upper control arms. Are they really a necessity with a t-bar crank? Or can you do without them? Cause I was looking at a Rough Country Lift (Keys, Shackles, Shocks, and control arms) for 500$, and I don't really think it's worth buying it just for the Control arms, so if there is someplace I can buy those alone, or if i don't need them at all that'd be great. I'm only looking for 1.5-2" in the front.
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 292

Ya, I was also looking into lifting my blazer, kinda the same idea. But I was wondering about the upper control arms. Are they really a necessity with a t-bar crank? Or can you do without them? Cause I was looking at a Rough Country Lift (Keys, Shackles, Shocks, and control arms) for 500$, and I don't really think it's worth buying it just for the Control arms, so if there is someplace I can buy those alone, or if i don't need them at all that'd be great. I'm only looking for 1.5-2" in the front.
#7
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Athabasca AB
Posts: 11

Nice! Thanks. Looks like I have my summer project just about ready to go! Now I just need to save some pennies and get er done. I'll be sure to post some pics when I start. Maybe I'll be able to help some one that has the same questions later down the road.
#8
The " 2" lift UCA's " are really just to make things easier on
A) the ball joints
B) the guy doing your alignment.
Mostly B though, some guys have run into issues getting their trucks aligned after a T-bar crank.
As for keys, if you have a weak T-bar which has already been "cranked" to regain the proper stiffness you may not be able to pull of your 1.5" lift. Again some guys had a weak T-bar and were only able to get the front up .5"-1". The keys would remedy this problem by supplying MORE cranking ability.
Are these neccessities? NO, but if you run into any of these issues you'll need the corresponding part. (Or new T-bars. ZR-2 bars are beefier btw)
A) the ball joints
B) the guy doing your alignment.
Mostly B though, some guys have run into issues getting their trucks aligned after a T-bar crank.
As for keys, if you have a weak T-bar which has already been "cranked" to regain the proper stiffness you may not be able to pull of your 1.5" lift. Again some guys had a weak T-bar and were only able to get the front up .5"-1". The keys would remedy this problem by supplying MORE cranking ability.
Are these neccessities? NO, but if you run into any of these issues you'll need the corresponding part. (Or new T-bars. ZR-2 bars are beefier btw)
#9
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: stratford ont
Posts: 69

x2 on the t-crank...just keep it around 1.5" and you'll be fine.
just watch for the cv boots to slip off with the new angle your gonna be putting them at with the t-crank.
easy to fix....just a mess to clean up.
all else sounds like a sound plan to me....its what i did
just watch for the cv boots to slip off with the new angle your gonna be putting them at with the t-crank.
easy to fix....just a mess to clean up.
all else sounds like a sound plan to me....its what i did
#10
What works for one person won't necessarily work for the next. There are different torsion bars as well as the affects of age that make it difficult to say how many turns to take. You just have to get into it and see what works for you.






