Questions on Crank and Shackle
#1
04-14-2010, 04:07 PM
Questions on Crank and Shackle
Hey Guys. I was looking into doing a t bar crank and the shackles in the rear i just had a couple of questions. One how hard is this to do, also my truck needs new ball joints and shocks as it is right now so would it be a better choice to just go with the RC suspension lift? thanks.
#2
04-15-2010, 12:07 PM
Being an aging autocrosser and drag racer, I'm new to this, but just got done doing my lift in the manner you speak.....
First...check how many threads you have left on your t-bar bolts.... If they don't have many threads left (4 turns generally = 1") I'd look at getting some used T-bars out of low-mile salvage. New are expensive.
Second ....I did all four balljoints and new CV shafts at the same time (as well as shocks and swaybar bushings and new tie-rod grease cups (tie rods were still good). so, you doing that is a step in the right direction.
Third...I got my shackles off ebay and they were ~$80 w/ all new hardware. Solid pieces. The factory bolts can be siezed in the bushing sleeves. In hindsight, I'd been ahead to get new rear leaf bushings and just cut the bolts off.
Front and back - pressure wash everything first. Crud sucks.
Follow directions you read on here. Use jackstands. Be careful. Don't get ahead of yourself.
After pressure washing, PB blaster on any bolt you will touch. Do this every day or so starting the week before the work begins.
I did all the work in the equivalent of a weekend, but I strung it out over a week of evenings.
When bolting the tie-rods back up....the stud spun some (they are greased internally). After cleaning the bore on the centerlink and cleaning the tie-rod well, I used a small sliver of duct tape to help the shaft 'bite' and not turn so I could tighten the nut down. I used several of these in trial-n-error until I came up with the right size that allowed the centerlink to completely bottom-out. It ended up being about the size of 'size'. <this word in this font> Worked well.
I did the rear shackles first and once I got the front end completed...tightened the t-bars until everthing was equal front/back and side-to-side. I then ran it around the yard a few times and checked again. One needed another turn and the other needed a 1/2 turn. Went and got it aligned.
There is some fenderwell trimming on mine. I can take pics if you ask.....I'll put them in my build thread.
Stock shocks do NOT have enough travel to allow full extension. If you aren't worried about losing and inch or two of extension....big whoopie. My fronts are okay, but the rear shocks I got keep mine from about 3/4" of flex.
I kept my rear sway bar and added ES bushings to it and the front bar. I'm going to make a quick disconnect on the fronts using a method you can search for using 'ZR2' and 'sway bar' and 'disconnect' in the search string. Basically a 5" grade 8, a wing nut, and a clip. In the rear I'm going to use a pit-pin to replace one of the bolts on one side of the rear sway bar to make a quick disconnect there.
My truck handles better than it did....rides smoother....and works better. My 99 Blazer had all the bushings and none of the lift and didn't 'work' as well.
Only other thing I want to do with the suspension is add a steering stabilizer. 31" tires on a short-wheelbase lifted truck.....
I am still thinking about a 2" BL, but the jury is still out. Tire clearance will dictate and if I don't have issues when I go offroading then it won't happen. If won't buy me much other than looks, some tire clearance, and a higher center of gravity (everything is a tradeoff).
It's really not a big deal doing what you are going to try. If your rear springs are already sagging I'd look at picking up another set from the salvage. My '99 blazer had 3-leaf springs and sagged. My '00 Jimmy has 4-leaf units and stands tall. Using an add-a-leaf might increase your rate more than you want. That is why I went with shackles like most do.
any help...? Hope so. check out my posts to see picks of some work....more to come.
Good luck.
First...check how many threads you have left on your t-bar bolts.... If they don't have many threads left (4 turns generally = 1") I'd look at getting some used T-bars out of low-mile salvage. New are expensive.
Second ....I did all four balljoints and new CV shafts at the same time (as well as shocks and swaybar bushings and new tie-rod grease cups (tie rods were still good). so, you doing that is a step in the right direction.
Third...I got my shackles off ebay and they were ~$80 w/ all new hardware. Solid pieces. The factory bolts can be siezed in the bushing sleeves. In hindsight, I'd been ahead to get new rear leaf bushings and just cut the bolts off.
Front and back - pressure wash everything first. Crud sucks.
Follow directions you read on here. Use jackstands. Be careful. Don't get ahead of yourself.
After pressure washing, PB blaster on any bolt you will touch. Do this every day or so starting the week before the work begins.
I did all the work in the equivalent of a weekend, but I strung it out over a week of evenings.
When bolting the tie-rods back up....the stud spun some (they are greased internally). After cleaning the bore on the centerlink and cleaning the tie-rod well, I used a small sliver of duct tape to help the shaft 'bite' and not turn so I could tighten the nut down. I used several of these in trial-n-error until I came up with the right size that allowed the centerlink to completely bottom-out. It ended up being about the size of 'size'. <this word in this font> Worked well.
I did the rear shackles first and once I got the front end completed...tightened the t-bars until everthing was equal front/back and side-to-side. I then ran it around the yard a few times and checked again. One needed another turn and the other needed a 1/2 turn. Went and got it aligned.
There is some fenderwell trimming on mine. I can take pics if you ask.....I'll put them in my build thread.
Stock shocks do NOT have enough travel to allow full extension. If you aren't worried about losing and inch or two of extension....big whoopie. My fronts are okay, but the rear shocks I got keep mine from about 3/4" of flex.
I kept my rear sway bar and added ES bushings to it and the front bar. I'm going to make a quick disconnect on the fronts using a method you can search for using 'ZR2' and 'sway bar' and 'disconnect' in the search string. Basically a 5" grade 8, a wing nut, and a clip. In the rear I'm going to use a pit-pin to replace one of the bolts on one side of the rear sway bar to make a quick disconnect there.
My truck handles better than it did....rides smoother....and works better. My 99 Blazer had all the bushings and none of the lift and didn't 'work' as well.
Only other thing I want to do with the suspension is add a steering stabilizer. 31" tires on a short-wheelbase lifted truck.....
I am still thinking about a 2" BL, but the jury is still out. Tire clearance will dictate and if I don't have issues when I go offroading then it won't happen. If won't buy me much other than looks, some tire clearance, and a higher center of gravity (everything is a tradeoff).
It's really not a big deal doing what you are going to try. If your rear springs are already sagging I'd look at picking up another set from the salvage. My '99 blazer had 3-leaf springs and sagged. My '00 Jimmy has 4-leaf units and stands tall. Using an add-a-leaf might increase your rate more than you want. That is why I went with shackles like most do.
any help...? Hope so. check out my posts to see picks of some work....more to come.
Good luck.
#4
04-15-2010, 01:36 PM
I don't have 'before' pictures of the fenderwells so you'll have to compare to yours. I'll try to take them tonight. Keep in mind my truck is a Jimmy that has the extra plastic girth and most of the trimming has been done to it. I have used a hammer on the driver's-side and a 4 1/2 angle-grinder with a cutoff wheel to do the rest. I'm going to trim more tonight off the plastic on both sides at the rear of the front wheel-opening.
the only other 'rub' I have is the frame behind the front tire at full lock. Most have it hit the swaybar and that is a non-issue for mine.
Also.....use Moog or TRW parts for your ball-joints and such. Stay clear of the cheapie junk since you are altering your vehicle and might use it in a stressful manner (offroading). I've never broke a ball-joint or the like when out and about or even racing, but I have been around plenty that have. It is a PITB. Use the other's experience as a cautionary tale to take precautionary measures beforehand. That won't stop all failures (even new parts can break), but it sure does minimize the changes of FUBAR'd parts.
As I said....check my build thread tomorrow or soon thereafter for more pictures of trimming, the front suspension, rear suspension, engine compartment, etc.
the only other 'rub' I have is the frame behind the front tire at full lock. Most have it hit the swaybar and that is a non-issue for mine.
Also.....use Moog or TRW parts for your ball-joints and such. Stay clear of the cheapie junk since you are altering your vehicle and might use it in a stressful manner (offroading). I've never broke a ball-joint or the like when out and about or even racing, but I have been around plenty that have. It is a PITB. Use the other's experience as a cautionary tale to take precautionary measures beforehand. That won't stop all failures (even new parts can break), but it sure does minimize the changes of FUBAR'd parts.
As I said....check my build thread tomorrow or soon thereafter for more pictures of trimming, the front suspension, rear suspension, engine compartment, etc.
#5
04-15-2010, 03:50 PM
I trimmed my fenders... here is a thread about it with pics...
https://blazerforum.com/forum/paint-body-interior-39/el-cheapo-fender-trimming-job-30332/
Just crank the t-bars about 5 turns and do the rear shackles... this will allow you to run up to a 31/10.50-15's on stock rims.
I would buy "MOOG" ball joints when you get around to replacing them.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/paint-body-interior-39/el-cheapo-fender-trimming-job-30332/
Just crank the t-bars about 5 turns and do the rear shackles... this will allow you to run up to a 31/10.50-15's on stock rims.
I would buy "MOOG" ball joints when you get around to replacing them.
#6
04-15-2010, 04:31 PM
Oh i trimmed my fenders too and I acutally just replaced my ball joints with moog lol. Im running cragers soft 8's with 4.5" backspaceing possibly looking to run 30's. But im just looking to see how he trimmed his fenders compared to the way I did thats all
#8
04-17-2010, 01:45 PM
IMO there is nothing wrong with the TRW ball joints. Ive had them on my blazer for over a year now & when i did the control arm bushings a couple weeks ago i checked them out ... still tight like they were the day i put them in & the boots have no tears, holes or any other sign of wear.
For $20 a piece less its worth it to me, esp. since its still a lifetime warranty part.
For $20 a piece less its worth it to me, esp. since its still a lifetime warranty part.