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Rough country?

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Old 02-25-2018, 05:52 PM
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Default Rough country?

Im having my lift kit installed and the shop said to get new cv axles. I was wondering if I should get the stock axles or get the zr2 ones has anyone tried that?
 
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:10 PM
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I know the zr2 ones are considerably longer due to the wider stance. I do not believe it would work.

Rough country kits come with brackets to drop the front differential to keep the geometry in spec, so there is no real need to upgrade to high angle CV's anyway.(Which are very expensive)
 
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:17 PM
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*Moving to Lifting Tech*
 
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:28 PM
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K thanks any recommendations of things to replace while it’s all torn apart? Already doing tie rod ends, pitman arm, and cv axles.
 
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:40 PM
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I would do the idler arm too. You could also do the flaming river U joint mod to get rid of the rag joint, then virtually all the "usual suspects" in your steering system are new or upgraded
 
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:54 AM
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Doing the 2.5" lift? Then no new CV joints are needed unless the current ones have issues all their own. If you are not the type to replace the CV axles at home, then you might have the shop do them for you since there is no extra labor involved. If you can wait and would do the repair yourself, then you can save a few bucks and do them when they wear out.

I did have an issue with the inner boot on the passenger side coming off the inner lip when I cranked the T-bars. Now I did not lower the front differential so this will likely be less of an issue for you since my axles are probably at a larger angle then yours will be. However, you might want to periodically inspect them to see if the boots stay on.

I think I might have gotten lucky and found my slipped boot early. I repacked it with grease and was able to slip it back on and secure it with a large hose clamp. I did have to undo the T-bar crank to be able to slip the boot back on. I also learned it mattered which way I installed the hose clamp as you want to install it so that the tightening motion on the screw does not cause the clamp band to twist and come off. My repair has lasted 5-6 months now.
 

Last edited by christine_208; 02-26-2018 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 03-02-2018, 01:39 AM
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Install is done looks great drives great but getting a strange humming noise between 60-75. still on the same tires so not sure what it is any thoughts?
 
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Old 03-02-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert VanderBorgt View Post
Install is done looks great drives great but getting a strange humming noise between 60-75. still on the same tires so not sure what it is any thoughts?

No pictures???? 😣
 
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Old 03-02-2018, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Lefet View Post
No pictures???? 😣
This.


Also, I'd check wheel bearings first.
 
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by christine_208 View Post
Doing the 2.5" lift? Then no new CV joints are needed unless the current ones have issues all their own. If you are not the type to replace the CV axles at home, then you might have the shop do them for you since there is no extra labor involved. If you can wait and would do the repair yourself, then you can save a few bucks and do them when they wear out.

I did have an issue with the inner boot on the passenger side coming off the inner lip when I cranked the T-bars. Now I did not lower the front differential so this will likely be less of an issue for you since my axles are probably at a larger angle then yours will be. However, you might want to periodically inspect them to see if the boots stay on.

I think I might have gotten lucky and found my slipped boot early. I repacked it with grease and was able to slip it back on and secure it with a large hose clamp. I did have to undo the T-bar crank to be able to slip the boot back on. I also learned it mattered which way I installed the hose clamp as you want to install it so that the tightening motion on the screw does not cause the clamp band to twist and come off. My repair has lasted 5-6 months now.
Do you have any additional problems assuming that you donīt drop the diff? considering itīs a 2,5" lift, maybe your differential is working on a critical angle, considering that the recomended lift doing the t-bar crank is 1" to 1,5".
 

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