the zr2 comes stock with 31s and a factory 2in? lift (correct me if im wrong guys). it all depends on who you buy it from and what size you get.

 

The ZR2s do come stock with 31x10.5 tires. They are 2-3" higher than a non-ZR2 blazer but they can still be lifted the same way (ie, tbar crank, shackles, body lift, differential drop, or spring over rear axle) so the information regarding lifting in the first post is still applicable.

One thing to note though, is that the difference in height is from the frame itself. It's not possible to simply unbolt parts from a ZR2 and bolt them on to a non-ZR2

 

yea so when you are looking at the list of lift kits just add 2-3" to whatever lift you are thinking about getting

 

so if i lift my 2000 ZR2 with the BDS 5 in ill really have 7in total? and thats the only bigger lift that specifies that its for a ZR2 also anyone have the BDS any reviews comments suggestoins are very help full

also how big of tires can i fit with that 5 in BDS lift i already have 31's on it now

 

would i be able to modify this body lift to fit my 96? it says for 98+ but i think it might be pretty simple to modify. i think...

2" body lift for 98-03Blazer/Jimmy

 

Someone may have asked this but in my research I found a lot of people saying that 2 inch suspension lifts are junk because of the wear and tear? Also which would be preferred a 2 inch suspension lift or a t-bar lift? Also what do you mean by minor trimming?

 

2in suspension consists of the t-bar lift. a body lift is better because the suspension stays the same so you don't need to do an alignments and chamber adjustment after. and minor trimming means cutting around the wheel well and such, i didn't have to do that bc i just hammered some stuff to the side, but it varies on all the blazer i guess.

 

Depending on wear and how the truck was driven, you may be starting off lower than "that guy's" Blazer, meaning if you do the 1.5" T-bar crank, and he does the same he'll have an advantage over you. This sometimes results in trimming since you were "lower than factory spec" when you started.

Depending what you do with your truck a Crank will net you more ground clearance than just a simple body lift and tires. A body lift just makes more room for bigger tires, meaning all of the ground clearnce you gain is from the larger diameter of the tires.

The T-bar crank will net you more clearance because it's lifting the frame up, and the hubs away from the body, giving you more frame to ground clearance from both the crank AND the tires.

If you're mostly on road and only wheel ocassionally (some guys are hardcore and go every weekend) then I would only do a body lift.

If you're wheeling every weekend then I would look at the T-bar crank.

Honestly, an Add A Leaf is probably a better route to go than the Shackles in the rear if you crank. While it's more expensive, the ride will be a little better since sometimes the extra length of the shackle, and just the weird geometry it creates can result in a softer rear-end. Not great if you want to carry any loads.

Warning: T-bar crank DOES increase wear. You have some aggressive CV joint angles as a result, more angle creates more wear. Same with ball joints and steering parts. Susp. Lifts aren't "Junk" though. But you'll be replacing more CV axles than if you were stock.

 

just for anyone looking into the 6in superlift kit, here at Superlift 6" GM Suspension Lift KitK790 - tal4x4.com
it is 1700$, plus shipping, so 1800ish, the best price i can find with the SL shocks, idk however if it is all 3 boxes, as i believe it is shipped in 3. But a call to that company wouldn't hurt just in case, its tal4x4.com if the link doesn't work, add any info if you can or the best prices on these lifts.

 

Does anyone have a link for BDS body lift kit cant find it on their website