if you have a 18mm socket and socket wrench you can do it.

 

its easy to do just a PITA to get the bolts out of the back when you go to put the shakles in.

 

u guys are i awesome i do live about 30 minutes south of chicago. also do you guys have anything against a hockey puck body lift? i have heard a lot of good and bad things im just curious as to what you all would think about it?

 

u guys are awesome i have heard a lot about the hockey puck body lift what do u guys think? ur guys' input is awesome my jimmy is kinda a daily driver i have 2 other vehicles i just dont want to break anything to bad on it so wou;d the hockey puck lift work

 

like using actual hockey pucks? I don't know if you would want to do that. a 2" body lift kit is only $200-$300 and it comes with everything you need.

 

Dont use hockey pucks...Zone offroad sells real blocks for about the same as a decent puck. And cheap ones fall apart eventually after drilling them.

Your big issue is the bumpers and steering. The price of the body lift kit is really for bolts and bumpers. I helped design my kit since no one made it. The bolts alone are 50 bucks for 10.9 grade and the 3 inch blocks were 50ish. The guy I helped is selling my kit for 400 because of the cost of having the steering extension machined and the bumper brackets fabbed and he is barely breaking even.

If you just want height and are changing bumpers...buy bolts and blocks and figure outhow to get a steering ext and and you will save money, if you want the bumpers right, buy the kit someone else put together and be happy.

 

^^^ agreed.

The pros to a suspension lift (Torsion Bar Crank and Shackles for $$$ saving) is that you increase your frame to ground height more than just a body lift, meaning it's more practical off road.

The pros about the body lift: It's more practical on road.

You won't get the same frame to ground height as a susp. lift which IMO matters in hardcore situ's, the only thing that's lifting the frame higher from the ground is the larger diameter tire, meaning instead of gaining almost 3 inches of frame to ground increase, you're only gaining 1, which could be the difference between climbing over that rock of not.

Also, if you do a hockey puck lift you get a free banjo and camo ball cap.

Oh, welcome to the forum

 

Body lift does keep your COG lower which is a bonus. I personally think a combonation of the both is the way to go.

 

Aww man...When did this start and where is my banjo?!

Really though, the hockey puck will break down over time cause they arn't meant to be under constant pressure in adverse weather. I know some people that have made body lifts out of machined metal, but they were 20+ year gearheads and these were strictly off road mudders. The kit's are expensive but you get a better result and peace of mind. Plus why skimp out on a costly investment and important asset in your life such as your means of transport?

Plus like Oktain said, but I'll say it bluntly. I'm a redneck from WV, and as so, I can honestly say this. A hockey puck lift, even when you wrap a coke can around them and paint it black to look like a "real" body lift, is NOT a good idea if you drive on road at all.

Also there is a sticky in the lifted section about the torsion bar adjustment. All you need is a ratchet and 18mm socket, normal will work but a deep well never hurts. Also a floor jack and two jackstands helps cause with the front tires off the ground the bolts will turn MUCH easier... Ask me how I know

 

Only Canadians use hockey pucks for lift, eh.

Also, if you do any lift you should snag some Kroil. It's only available in the states and is used for de-sticking the bolts. It's very corrosive and will help a ton when getting out old bolts that are rusted and battered. I used some for doing my AAL, and it helped out a ton. It was imported through the black market to Canada of course.