Lighting & Electrical Post your lighting and chassis/engine electrical questions here. Any audio/video questions should be posted in the 'Audio/Video Electronics' section.

1996 blazer electrical conundrum

Old Dec 17, 2019 | 02:14 PM
  #1  
djentkent's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Starting Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1
djentkent is on a distinguished road
Default 1996 blazer electrical conundrum

The beginning

My blazer had been sitting for a year or so because I planned on making it a long project but after realizing it would be more money and time than I had to spend on it I decided to just get it running and drive it while working on it slowly. After getting stuff in order to get it running I test started it. It started right away just the way it’s supposed to. I ran it for a minute or two and shut it off. Ignition worked fine. On and off like it’s supposed to.

I changed the suspension parts and installed a new radiator, brakes and so forth. After that I cleaned the engine bay with water (first mistake?) and I went to start it and it started right up but then when I shut the key off and it just kept running. I pulled the ECM fuse to kill it and I figured it was the ignition switch.

I have very little experience and am just guessing. No educated guesses to be found. I switched the ignition switch with my s10 truck’s switch. In the process I thought it’d be a good idea to see what it looks like under the top cap of the switch. I opened it to have springs blow out everywhere and lost one. So I’m like “ok, I’ll just take springs from the ‘bad’ one.” It turns out that’s not a good idea. I reckon that messes up the connections In the switch, which I found out later. When I plugged the 40-something pin connector to the ignition switch it shorted a ground wire and burned it up. I put the old one in and that did the same thing.

I bought a new switch and didn’t mess with the springs, rewired the ground and fixed other wires the ground roasted. Put it back together and tried to start it. Now my starter isn’t clicking or anything and I’m getting constant power to all the pink, orange, and red wires ALL THE TIME with the battery connected. I know that’s what it was doing to keep it running in the first place but I checked that after I replaced the ignition switch cause I’m an idiot.

Where I’m at now

My ground isn’t getting hot. Nothing is on fire but when I plug the battery in my buzzer goes off, the ignition coil turns on, the red, orange, and pink wires are getting power in the engine bay. Also the battery light, seat belt light and parking brake lights all stay on on the instrument cluster.

I’ve changed the alternator, battery, and ignition coil/control module. I’ve gone through the entire main harness, dash harness, fuses and relays, and fuel sending unit connectors and wires.

I also have disconnected fuses to see if any of them stop the flow of angry pixies. Luckily pulling the gauges fuse (4) stops the flow but I’m not entirely sure where all the sensors and everything are that are related to the gauges fuse.

I’ve been messing with this for a while and I’m about to:
  1. douse the blazer in gas and burn it to the ground.
  2. sell it and let someone else do #1 to it or fix it.

I don’t want to give up on her though. Mainly because I don’t really wanna lose the money and time I’ve put in. If anyone has any ideas, wiring diagrams or anything that will help I’d really appreciate it.

P.s. have mercy on my inexperienced and sometimes stupid things I’ve done.
 
Old Dec 19, 2019 | 04:02 PM
  #2  
christine_208's Avatar
BF Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,588
From: Moscow, ID
christine_208 has a spectacular aura aboutchristine_208 has a spectacular aura about
Default

Oh boy. Only thing I can think of is that there is definitely not a broken item but one that is doing something it was never intended to do, e.g. be a short. If you could get your hands on a GM Service manual, that might help with tracing the wiring.

Perhaps if you disconnect some of the items that part of the circuit for the gauges (#4) then you might find the offending item. From what you wrote the fault might be there.

Good Luck!
 
Old Dec 20, 2019 | 11:32 AM
  #3  
Bill O'Bryan's Avatar
Starting Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 4
Bill O'Bryan is on a distinguished road
Old Jun 20, 2021 | 05:49 PM
  #4  
jmjrpid7581@yahoo.com's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5
From: Pennsylvania
jmjrpid7581@yahoo.com is on a distinguished road
Default

I am having the same issue you are. I HAVE NOT REPLACED THE IGNITION SWITCH.
NEED HELP !!!. TRYING to figure out a 1996 GMC JIMMY SLS 4X4 2 DOOR. new battery, new alternator, new fuel pump, new spider injection. Intake manifold gaskets and all, new ignition control module, new coil pack, new distributor, new spark plugs and wires. new crankshaft position sensor. ALTERNATOR GETS EXTREMELY HOT LIKE HIGH CURRENT DRAW. I have went through these grounds, battery to frame battery to block - negative ground wire on battery. 2 grounds on radiator support. Also a ground on firewall from wiring harness. Also went through the wiring harness inside dash and also the wiring harness goes from fuse block across to passenger side . I have taken off the headlight’s so this is not drawing the power. ANY IDEA"S WOULD HELP
 

Last edited by jmjrpid7581@yahoo.com; Jun 20, 2021 at 06:28 PM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
swartlkk
Article Submissions/Discussions
33
Dec 29, 2023 03:57 PM
zionatdirt
Lighting & Electrical
18
Apr 8, 2012 11:22 PM
gbdane
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
4
Aug 20, 2010 06:49 PM
CallmeIshmael
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
5
Apr 5, 2009 05:46 AM
baldmikey96
General Tech Help
3
May 6, 2006 10:48 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:03 AM.