Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums (https://blazerforum.com/forum/)
-   Lighting & Electrical (https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighting-electrical-52/)
-   -   2000 Blazer Power Window Problem (https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighting-electrical-52/2000-blazer-power-window-problem-57366/)

pierce.terry@gmail.com Mar 31, 2011 02:02 PM

2000 Blazer Power Window Problem
 
My 2000 Blazer LT driver's power window has quit working. The controls from the driver's side panel still work the passenger and back seat windows fine. What do I need to replace? Is there a separate control motor just for the driver's window or will I need to replace it all. Where does a person get the best deal on those parts? Thanks

PinkCamo Mar 31, 2011 05:50 PM

I'm thinking the whole power window switch assembly needs to be changed. I just had my driver's door apart today and the power window switches are all tied into one connector on my 2000 Blazer LT. I would suggest popping the switches off the door and take a look. I found the power window switch from O'Reilly Autoparts for $99.99. Part # 901-021. Hope this helps.

pierce.terry@gmail.com Apr 1, 2011 10:36 AM

Thanks for your response. Do I need to take the entire door panel off or just where the power window and locks are on the door panel. Does it just pop out? I have never really done anything like that, but I don't want to take it to a shop and get charged $500 which I was quoted. Thanks

PinkCamo Apr 1, 2011 11:28 AM

I popped my whole door panel and then popped out the switch assembly. I believe there is a way to do it without doing the whole door panel but this isn't that complicated. You'll want to remove the door latch surround, there is a screw holding that to the door itself and the two screws underneath the hand grab place. Then you should be able to start pulling out on the door panel to pop the little plastic pins. There is quite a few of those and it can be kinda hard to pop off the first time. It will only separate from the door by a few inches because of the switch connectors. That's when I was able to pop the whole switch assembly and fit it through the door panel to take a look at those. I'm sure other sites carry that switch assembly that was just one from the auto parts place in town here. It would take me about 30 minutes to pull the door apart, replace that switch assembly and put it back together. Something I've learned is that try the switches before putting it back together ;) I've put it all together and realized it didn't fix my problem.

1997blazerLS May 23, 2011 09:12 PM

It sounds like your motor has died in the door that stopped working. Does it make any noise at all like clicking, or humming? Did it have any signs of struggling before it stopped working?

swartlkk May 24, 2011 08:04 AM

Time to pull the door panel and start testing the wiring. If you have power & ground to the motor, then the switch and related wiring are intact. If the motor still will not move while being supplied power & ground directly from the battery (run a jumper wire), then there you have it; the motor is bad.

CRDuncan Jun 29, 2011 09:55 PM

Watch the video on youtube. The switch surround should just lift out from the front with a little clip at the rear that slides forward to realease. It is too easy on mine a child could take it apart by accident just playing.

speedball Jun 23, 2012 06:36 PM

On my 2000 Blazer 4 dr LT all the power windows work fine from the drivers door control, but the other 3 (front rt and rear both sides) won't work individually on those doors. Motors are all good. All power locks work normal. What's going on here ?

nunya Jun 24, 2012 01:54 PM


Originally Posted by speedball (Post 526156)
On my 2000 Blazer 4 dr LT all the power windows work fine from the drivers door control, but the other 3 (front rt and rear both sides) won't work individually on those doors. Motors are all good. All power locks work normal. What's going on here ?

do you have the window lock on?

grayfort Sep 13, 2012 11:43 AM

I had the same problem as speedball, master works, individuals don't. I pressed the lock/unlock several times to no avail. Finally I pulled the master console from the drivers door (it really is a simple remove) and separated the two clips holding the lock switch in place. After removing the plug I found one of the blade contacts corroded. Scraping them with a small flat blade screwdriver solved the problem. An ohm meter is invaluable for checking out whether a switch is good or not.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:35 AM.


© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands