4x4 selector button issues
#1
11-05-2012, 12:35 PM
4x4 selector button issues
Hey guys,
I have read the multiple 4x4 selector switch threads and none are having the same problem I'm having so heres a new thread.
I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 2dr 4x4 with the 3 button switch (No AWD).
The heater core went out in the Jimmy so I had to tear apart and remove the entire dash. Everything went back together good and didnt even lose or have any extra bolts lol but now my 4x4 doesnt engage. The selector buttons have the illumination in the buttons themselves however theres no orange light indication which mode the Transfer case is in. If I push any of the buttons on the switch theres no noise from the encoder motor below and no flashing of lights on the switch or anything. I put all the connections back the way I pulled them apart (or so I though) but Im stumped. I even went to Autozone in the odd chance that maybe my switch went out at the same point I changed the heater core but thats not the issue. Its weird I have illumination on the switch buttons but no engagement light, and the 4x4 worked flawlessly before I tore the dash apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I have read the multiple 4x4 selector switch threads and none are having the same problem I'm having so heres a new thread.
I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 2dr 4x4 with the 3 button switch (No AWD).
The heater core went out in the Jimmy so I had to tear apart and remove the entire dash. Everything went back together good and didnt even lose or have any extra bolts lol but now my 4x4 doesnt engage. The selector buttons have the illumination in the buttons themselves however theres no orange light indication which mode the Transfer case is in. If I push any of the buttons on the switch theres no noise from the encoder motor below and no flashing of lights on the switch or anything. I put all the connections back the way I pulled them apart (or so I though) but Im stumped. I even went to Autozone in the odd chance that maybe my switch went out at the same point I changed the heater core but thats not the issue. Its weird I have illumination on the switch buttons but no engagement light, and the 4x4 worked flawlessly before I tore the dash apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#3
11-09-2012, 06:01 AM
Do the lights still go on as you turn the ignition key?
I had a similar issue on my older blazer. No reaction of the lights when i pressed the buttons but they did light on when i turn ignition.
Eventually i fixed the issue by resetting the TCCM module. Pull the fuse or take off power for i think 30 minutes (at least thats what i did). then turn power on/off with the key 5 times. This should reset the module and worked for me.
Hope it helps
I had a similar issue on my older blazer. No reaction of the lights when i pressed the buttons but they did light on when i turn ignition.
Eventually i fixed the issue by resetting the TCCM module. Pull the fuse or take off power for i think 30 minutes (at least thats what i did). then turn power on/off with the key 5 times. This should reset the module and worked for me.
Hope it helps
#4
11-09-2012, 07:05 AM
Do the lights still go on as you turn the ignition key?
I had a similar issue on my older blazer. No reaction of the lights when i pressed the buttons but they did light on when i turn ignition.
Eventually i fixed the issue by resetting the TCCM module. Pull the fuse or take off power for i think 30 minutes (at least thats what i did). then turn power on/off with the key 5 times. This should reset the module and worked for me.
Hope it helps
I had a similar issue on my older blazer. No reaction of the lights when i pressed the buttons but they did light on when i turn ignition.
Eventually i fixed the issue by resetting the TCCM module. Pull the fuse or take off power for i think 30 minutes (at least thats what i did). then turn power on/off with the key 5 times. This should reset the module and worked for me.
Hope it helps
#5
11-09-2012, 04:05 PM
Pulled power to the battery again today for over an hour and still the same issue when I put juice back to everything. I have power to the switch because the buttons themselves illuminate but the engagement light showing which mode the Tcase is in isnt lit or even making any sound of the encoder motor trying to engage. Ive checked both the 4x4 10amp fuse inside the cab as well as the fuse in the fuse box under the hood and both are good, even swapped them out with others just for precautionary measure...
Ive even checked on zr2usa.com forums (2nd choice) and they usually have info if I cant find it on here but I have yet to see anyone with the simillar problem other than Cody84 above..
Ive read that the location of the TCM leaves it vulnerable to moisture and corrosion being under the passanger kickplate under the dash, I do remember hooking the wires back up to it but mine as well go check them again for corrosion since Im at my wits end with this issue already... Im looking to get this fixed so I can sell it however a 4x4 Jimmy doesnt sell well when the 4x4 doesnt work! LoL
Ive even checked on zr2usa.com forums (2nd choice) and they usually have info if I cant find it on here but I have yet to see anyone with the simillar problem other than Cody84 above..
Ive read that the location of the TCM leaves it vulnerable to moisture and corrosion being under the passanger kickplate under the dash, I do remember hooking the wires back up to it but mine as well go check them again for corrosion since Im at my wits end with this issue already... Im looking to get this fixed so I can sell it however a 4x4 Jimmy doesnt sell well when the 4x4 doesnt work! LoL
#6
11-13-2012, 09:45 AM
I would like to know if having a vacuum problem would cause the lights not to light up. No one seems to know. It doesn't seem electrical as replacing fuses, switches and TCCM does nothing. And mine don't light up at all when starting, just the background illumination.
I'm going to try switching out my transfer case vacuum switch next and I'll report back, but that won't be until I get paid this Friday.
I'm going to try switching out my transfer case vacuum switch next and I'll report back, but that won't be until I get paid this Friday.
#7
11-21-2012, 04:41 PM
Good News and Bad News...
Good News:
The 4x4 indicator light is linked directly with the dome and overhead consule lights. Check fuse #8 (10A) inside the door panel, turns out that fuse was popped so replacing that will put power back to the selector switch and dome light so they work
Bad News:
There is a short somewhere as the fuse works fine until I open the passenger door and then it cuts power to 1/2 mass for a second and then blows the fuse. Awkward problem to trip the fuse but I tried putting a larger fuse in thinking that might stop it from popping if it was only throwing a few amps over 10 however the 20amp fuse only heated the wires up so hot to where they were starting to smoke and almost catch fire behind the glove box. There is an Orange and Black wire that goes to the door sensor/plunger which tells when the door is open/shut tripping the dome light. There must be a short or bad ground in the wiring somewhere because its now causing the 10amp fuse to blow every time I open the passanger door.
Not even sure where to start this project now, went to the scrapyard and picked up a new door sensor/plunger and that wasnt the issue so I guess its trace the orange and black wires back to its origin since thats what was smoking hot to find the problem.
Hope this helps your same problem Cody84
Good News:
The 4x4 indicator light is linked directly with the dome and overhead consule lights. Check fuse #8 (10A) inside the door panel, turns out that fuse was popped so replacing that will put power back to the selector switch and dome light so they work
Bad News:
There is a short somewhere as the fuse works fine until I open the passenger door and then it cuts power to 1/2 mass for a second and then blows the fuse. Awkward problem to trip the fuse but I tried putting a larger fuse in thinking that might stop it from popping if it was only throwing a few amps over 10 however the 20amp fuse only heated the wires up so hot to where they were starting to smoke and almost catch fire behind the glove box. There is an Orange and Black wire that goes to the door sensor/plunger which tells when the door is open/shut tripping the dome light. There must be a short or bad ground in the wiring somewhere because its now causing the 10amp fuse to blow every time I open the passanger door.
Not even sure where to start this project now, went to the scrapyard and picked up a new door sensor/plunger and that wasnt the issue so I guess its trace the orange and black wires back to its origin since thats what was smoking hot to find the problem.
Hope this helps your same problem Cody84
#8
11-22-2012, 05:41 AM
Holy crap! It's kinda creepy how similar our situations are:
Last year I ripped out the light on my driver side visor mirror, because the cover wasn't closing and to it wasn't pressing the switch down to turn off the light. When I did this I crossed some wires or something and shorted it. Since then I haven't had any overhead lights because it keeps popping. You're telling me this same system is connected to the indicator lights (and therefore power) on the 4x4 switch?!?!
I never would have figured that out ever...until I decided to fix the lights I guess. lol
Thanks! Will look into it tonite!
Last year I ripped out the light on my driver side visor mirror, because the cover wasn't closing and to it wasn't pressing the switch down to turn off the light. When I did this I crossed some wires or something and shorted it. Since then I haven't had any overhead lights because it keeps popping. You're telling me this same system is connected to the indicator lights (and therefore power) on the 4x4 switch?!?!
I never would have figured that out ever...until I decided to fix the lights I guess. lol
Thanks! Will look into it tonite!