I would suggest pulling the alternator off and having it tested. I know Advance Auto Parts can bench test them, I'm sure most all parts stores can. I wander if the alternator catastrophicly failed causing the grinding noise, then at the same time the regular in it failed and sent a voltage spike through the electrical system and knocked out the PCM... Would suck to replace the PCM only to have a fresh one fry as soon as you started the truck because the alternator spiked the voltage again...

Just a thought

 

That's good advice, my buddy suggested the same, so I tried that. The alternator is fine, so I'm not sure what else to do. Any other ideas?

 

I make sure all my grounds are less than 5 ohms to chassis ground before I spend money on electrical parts. I'm wondering if you lost an engine to chassis or pcm ground that could throw all those codes and not blow a fuse. Maybe someone knows what voltage signal causes those individual codes and combined they could point us toward the problem.

 

 

I am thinking so too! But did something cause it to fail? Probably a try and see. You can get used PCM through Internet that is programmed to your VIN. They typically offer a return policy that would only cost you maybe $20 + ship to find out.