Thanks! I'ma go see what they got now. But yes that is the high beam. But I just checked the other as well and it's the same. Hot in all switch positions on both prongs

 

Thanks! I'ma go see what they got now. But yes that is the high beam. But I just checked the other as well and it's the same. Hot in all switch positions on both prongs

 

How are you determining that the wires are “hot” and is that with or without the bulbs in? We need to stay away from the high beams because those are even more complicated.

George

 

I hooked the test light to the negative on the battery and touched the prongs in the plug it lit up on both.

I just got a meter and checked the yellow I got like 13.93 with it running but it's too dark I'm going to pick back up in morning.

 

if you got hot on both bulb wires with the bulb installed then that’s because there’s no ground. If you got 13 V on both wires with no bulb installed then we have a major problem because you should only see that on one wire with the bulb removed. For now please do all the testing with the bulb removed and we need to concentrate for right now on the low beams because the high beams are more complicated.

if we verify that you’re not getting a ground to that low beam bulb then we’re gonna need to find out why that is. There are three different routes for the ground to get presented to the Bulb and one route does not even involve the multi function switch so while that switch may be defective that is not your entire problem

George

 

I appreciate the help. I'm going to check the other prong in the morning I only tested the yellow wire and got 13. I didn't try the blue one yet.

 

My pleasure. Make sure that the bulb is removed for the tests and your testing an empty harness connector

George

 

So on yellow/black with switch on I have 14.
same on yellow.
yellow/black showing 0.00 resistance
Yellow showing 0.L
switch on autoI have 14 on yellow/black14 on yellow as wellShowing 0.00 resistance on both prongs

This is on the driver's side low beam

 

All tests need to be with the bulb out of the socket.

Voltage tests are meter on DCV, red lead on empty bulb socket wire (ylw/blk) and negative lead on frame ground or battery negative post (even better). Battery voltage on yellow/black done this way says that you have proper power from the headlamp relay so the dash switch, relay, fuse and wiring are all good. The same reading on the yellow wire is a problem if done as stated with the bulb removed. Please confirm.

For the resistance measurement once again bulb removed, meter in resistance mode, one lead on the yellow wire and the other lead on frame ground or battery negative (even better). Please confirm.


We need to get this right so we don’t go chasing ghosts and tearing into your wiring incorrectly.


George

 

Also, Given that this looks like a ground side problem, check the ign e fuse in the UFB.


George