Just noticed my brake lights will only come on under hard brake pedal pressure. Is this a problem caused by a bad pedal switch?

 

Does the high mount brake lamp come on with normal brake pedal pressure? (two seperate switches).

If so, yes, most likely a bad stop lamp switch.

 

Where are the 2 switches found?

 

Sorry, 2004 only has one switch, it's on the brake pedal support. Controls all stop lamps.

EDIT: Switch has two terminals: one has a single orange wire, the other has two white wires.

 

I have this problem too on my 2000 Jimmy 2 door 2wd. I have replaced the brake switch 4 times now. Each time of replacement, the brake lights work fine for a few days them they quit working. However, if you push the brake petal further down, the brake lights WILL work. I had a mechanic make an adjustment down at the pedal (don't see what there is to adjust???). At this time, they worked for about a week. Changed the switch, all fine for a few days then nothing UNTIL I push the pedal down further. Only top light works 100% of the time, because on a separate circuit. Hazards work, turn signals work, license plate lights work, and running lights all work fine. Just the 2 side brake lights, will only work if you depress the pedal down far. I even switched brands of brake switches to no avail. I have also tried giggling the hazzard switch, didn't work. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Finally went to replace my BLS and found a loose wire on harness, it actually broke when I tried to unplug the switch. It was the black wire. I wonder how much this switch harness moves? Looks like everytime brakes are applied. Surprised it lasted this long, 105k miles. To fix this should I just splice wire back to harness?

 

Stop lamp switch has two terminals: One has a single orange wire that has voltage at all times. The other has two white wires that have voltage when the brake pedal is pushed. Not sure about the black wire you found, unless some one has fixed it in the past. The broken wire needs to be soldered, don't use crimp connectors.

 

I planned to use crimped connections with solder to hold in place. The break is actually right at the factory crimp.

 

Im gonna check to see if its a power wire or a ground. There are 6 connections to the switch.

 

I just went thru this exact problem. If your 6 terminal connector isn't burnt/melted, like mine was....You can actually take the metal terminal out, and splice in new wire using solder. I bought a completely new terminal from Rock Auto which had longer wires, allowing more room for movement. The original wires were a little on the short side which is why mine broke, shorted, and melted.