Im getting hours cut back at work,and so is a buddy of mine. We have though of ways to make ends meet and i had this idea. Build a engine stand with a computer/harness and buy engines at the pull it yard (less then 150 bucks a piece!) and sell them running on the stand on the local craigslist. We'd buy things like 5.3's 5.7's,honda engines,popular ones etc. A used 5.3 locally goes for about 600.00-1200.00. Ive came across many of them at the pull it yards and passed over em. I can pull one out and test it on the stand and sell it for 350-500 that way it'll move quick. If i could sell 2 engines a week i could do pretty good.


Ideas/opinions? We'd get the money from the profits made on the 1st few sold. Ive got plenty of wood/metal to make a stand. Tbi engines computers etc would be a easy build as the computers etc are the same. Im just not sure how the ls series would work without having to buy the computers with them.

 

Make a list of the things you have to attach to the engine to make it work. Forget the computers

1. Cooling: a good size radiator.. plus flexible hoses and a holding tank for the coolant so you dont have to add for each engine

2. Fuel metering. Forget the injectors.. this -finally- is a good use for carburetors. One size fits all cause you dont have any engine load. A small one for a 1.6 - 2L would work fine Use waste plumbing adapter to attach to throttle bodies and prop throttle plate open.

3. Exhaust muffling. Gotta build some kind of quick exhaust connects to good muffler.
- I wont buy no freaking engine without actually being able to hear the engine.

4. Spark timing.
Here's the toughest part. You need an old mechanical/vacuum advance distributor attached through a 2:1 reducer to the crank. One for 6 cyl, another for 4/8 cyl {wire every other plug wire for the four}

 

ive already got a radiator out of a big ford f250. plenty big enough. What would i do about spark control on things like the 5.3 without a distributor?

 

First thing to do is learn to read.. by that I mean comprehend!

No wonder you guys ignore a lot of what I write.. I never know when to use MORE words or LESS words.

 

I did read what you wrote. I dont understand what you mean by "2:1 reducer to the crank". In my mind the distributor rides off the cam gear.

Explain what you mean instead of being rude about it.
Thanks

 

Good rules too bad you didn't do it.


OP
You are gonna have to get the complete harness or have one for each make and model. Most likely a wiring harness and with the ones with security systems a way to bypass it. Most newer gms have the chips in the keys and won't crank or run without it and keys in a j/y are rare. A electric pump with a wide range of regs to get the target pressure for the engine on the stand. Plan on an oil change for each engine before you even crank it. Don't forget a way to hook up fuel to all the oddball connections out there. The yards around here don't like you cutting hoses and wires and charge more if they catch you doing it, sometimes even ask you to leave and don't return.

I hope the yards you buying these from have a warranty. Suck to spend money on a quick turn and have to rebuild cracked heads or spun bearings.

You plan on steel stands cause I would suggest wooden ones.

 

Let's not make this personal guys. It's just the internet.

 

Il be using steel to build the stand. For the fuel pressure my friends got a used walbro 255 L/Hr high flow pump. I can get a fuel regulator for it to regulate things down for like the tbi engines etc. I had thought about the security systems,and until i can make enough turn around profit to supply the cash to bypass that stuff il be sticking with older tbi's and chevy engines. The wire harnesses etc and computers are mostly the same in the tbi area. Locally theirs a high demand for the tbis since 90% of the highschool teens have early 90's gm's that they dont take care of. For the oil thats not much of a issue as il be using walmarts supertech oil. its still just 11.99 a jug. As for warranties they provide a 30 day warranty. They arent too strict about cutting up stuff, as they already have all the hoses,fuel lines etc cut. they just dont allow torches.

 

I forget, is this where the ur momma jokes start, lmao.


Op

Regs have pressure ranges one won't do everything. Most tbis run about 13psi, very few run over before you blow gaskets out of it. Most carbs run 5 psi. Other forms of fi go up from there.

There was way more changes than you think in gm ecms from 86-94. Right off the top of my head I can think of 4 in s-series alone. Wanna say 3 in fullsize trucks. Some only require a prom swap and others a rewire of the ecm and prom swap to work.

Steel sounds nice but don't forget to factor in the cost of cutting (blades), drilling (bits), welding (rods/wire), and all the electricity that takes. A hand full of nails is way cheaper since you won't eat up near as many blades.

 

I think you will quickly get in over your head trying to resell modern engines. With all of the complexity that is in the wiring, PCM, fuel supply, etc, you would need to have TONS of different harnesses, PCMs, fuel pumps/tanks to run the variety of engines you are contemplating.

If you really want to get into this, it would be far easier to concentrate on one particular engine type and/or configuration (ex. old school carb'd engine w/ HEI type distributor).