Lowering Tech This section is for suspension questions related to decreasing the ride height of your vehicle.

Spindels Or Coils?

  #1  
Old 07-16-2009, 02:49 PM
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Default Spindels Or Coils?

Im about to start lowering my front end and I was wondering whats better?

I dont want my front end really low tho. I can get spindels from a friend for cheep right now but I dont wana buy them and not like how low it sits.
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:03 PM
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the choice is yours, if your dropping less than 3" it wont really matter which one you choose. the spindles will give you drop right away while the coils may take a week or so to fully "break" in.
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:13 PM
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Do they both give about the same amount of a drop?

Im putin new shocks on to when I do everything. But how much trouble is it to put on the spindels? Like what all will need to take off or replace?
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:28 PM
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if both the spindle and coil are for 2" of drop(or any other amount) they will give the same amount of drop the coil will just time to "break" in. as for the spindles:
REMOVAL
1) Loosen lug nuts
2)Jack truck up and put on jackstands
3)Remove wheels/tires
4)Remove brake caliper by removing two pin bolts from backside of caliper, use a 3/8" allen wrench. Secure caliper by string or wire, or set on a piece of wood, do not let caliper hang by the brakeline.
5)Remove dust cap, remove cotter pin from hub nut, then remove the hub nut. Slide the rotor off of the spindle
6)Remove the 3 bolts holding the dust shield to the spindle and slide off. Vehicles with ABS-be careful with the ABS line and do not break it. Also secure the dust shield with string or wire.
7)Remove the cotter pin from castle nut on the tie rod end, remove castle nut, and then separate balljoint.(easiest to use a pickle fork style separator) Let the tie rod swing down to the floor.
8)Place either a floor jack or piece of wood under the lower control arm with about " between the 2.
9)Remove cotter pin from upper and lower balljoints and then remove the castle nut from upper balljoint. Loosen castle nut on lower balljoint but do not remove all the way.
10)Using the pickle fork separate the lower balljoint. The control arm should drop slightly but the nut will hold it. Then separate the upper balljoint. Raise the jack until there is slight pressure and then remove the lower balljoint castle nut.
11)Lower the jack slowly, the upper balljoint should slide out of the spindle, lift the spindle up out of the lower balljoint.
INSTALLATION:
12)Place the new spindle on the lower balljoint and replace the castle nut. Raise the jack and guide the upper balljoint into the spindle and replace the castle nut. Tighten both nuts and reinsert both cotter pins.
13)Place the tie rod end back in the spindle, replace castle nut, and insert cotter pin.
14)Bolt the dust shield back in place on the new spindle
15)Slide the rotor back onto the spindle, tighten the hub nut, and insert cotter pin. Make sure the bearings and washer go back into place correctly. Then put the dust cap back on.
16)Slide the caliper back onto the rotor and reinstall the 2 bolts.
17)Bolt the wheel/tire back on and turn the steering wheel both directions to make sure nothing is hitting. Then do the other side the same.
TIPS:
If replacing the coils as well then the shocks will need to be removed in the first few steps.
*Get an alignment ASAP. If you suffer from severe toe out(your wheels are pointing in 2 different directions) you can loosen the 2 nuts on the tie rod adjusting sleeves and turn them until the wheels look straight.
*When done with everything take a grease gun and refill all your balljoints with fresh grease.
*It might be necessary to notch the bottom of your dust shield to prevent squeaking.
*Remember to measure your fenderwells before and after installation. Then you will know that your truck dropped the correct 2".
*When using a pickle fork(balljoint separator)be careful not to rip the rubber boot. You can also leave the castle nut on the end of the threads and hit it with a hammer, but you risk messing up the threads. Plus it is much easier to use the pickle fork as long as you are careful.
*If you are removing the castle nuts and notice that the whole balljoint is spinning, clamp a small pair of vise grips just above the rubber boot, and then continue loosening or tightening the nut.
*Now is also a great time to change your brake pads so if you think it’s time pick them up ahead of time

^^Credit goes to grndscrpr03 from S10F.
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:37 PM
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Man thats alot.

Im glad I have help with all this thanks alot. Im goin to go with the spindels I think.
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:27 PM
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spindles are a good choice especially if you can get them cheap.
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:08 PM
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When lowering (or lifting) a 2WD... spindles are definitely the way to go.
 
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:21 PM
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for drops 3" or less springs are just as good.
 
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:51 AM
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But with spindles your suspension is untouched lifting or lowering... same shock length, spring rate, ride, etc... If it were only that simple for 4x4's!
 
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:58 AM
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im not about lifting springs, but with lowering springs you can run your stock shocks and they improve the ride over stock im not sure on the how the spring rate of stock vs lower compare though. atleast you 4x4 guys can lift/lower for free (atleast the frontend anyway)
 

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