Hey everyone... Just signed up the other day after buying myself a 1999 GMC Jimmy SLE, 4 door, 4x4. Ended up getting it for $1750 with a valid emissions test.

I haven't gotten it safetied just yet, currently using a temp permit.
All it needs for safety (so I am told) is front door hinge pins and bushings, tires, rear window wiper motor, rear brake backing plates, and the headlights are messed up.

Tires I have been looking at getting a decent set of M+S tires. I'd like to get a set of 31x10.5x15 on it, but I have my doubts they will fit without a lift, which I don't think I have the time to do right now, so I'll likely stick with the 235s for the time being. (research to do)

For the head lights I have ordered a full set of HID's for the low beams (8000k) and for the fog lights (3000k) but the housings are messed up. The clips that hold them in place behind the rad support are missing on the passenger side, someone has instead opted to drive a small phillips head screw into the housing. The other one is just plane loose and I can't see any reason why.

The 4x4 doesn't work. Check engine light is on and showing these codes
P0751 - shift solenoid A performance or stuck off
P0753 - shift solenoid A electrical

*edit*
Just did a quick search on these codes. The truck shifts fine, usually... occasionally it has a hiccup, the only way I can describe it is to say while accelerating it seems like it pops out of gear for a brief second and then goes back in

I'm told these 2 codes have been attributed to bad contacts on the ignition switch. I'll have to get on top of getting this repaired, the 4x4 is part of the reason I bought the truck.

Here are the only pictures I have at the moment. I have just not had the chance to get out with the good camera and take some pics, so I'm left with the ones off my blackberry





And here is how bad the drivers door is. Because of this the interior panel is destroyed.

And to top it off someone has welded the hinge pin in place, so I guess I will have to get in there with a die grinder to get it out, fun stuff.

Truck came with a compustar remote starter & alarm on it, minus the remote. Found a new one at Future Shop for $50.
Has a very old Pioneer HU in it... the woman I bought it off of tried using it as a selling feature but I told her I bought the same deck used 7 years ago, lol. It's all wire for subs and a disc changer, but I think the HU has been installed wrong, or I have a bunch of blown speakers.

Sorry this got more wordy than I had planned, lol

 

Welcome

 

you got a good deal, that is a rare kind of jimmy. people would go crazy to get ahold of that brush guard, me included lol

 

I pulled the cover off the front over the weekend to see what size bulbs are in it, the framework is very rusty. I think I will be pulling it off in the spring and sending all the steel out for powder coat, just to try and preserve it. I'll do any repairs to it at that time.

Also, about those codes... just kept reading the searches that came up for the 2nd one, found a post saying its the ignition switch and that the security light will be on. Well, my security light is on. I think I will be ordering a new ignition switch.

 

If you ever think about selling that guard get at me. Goodluck

 

So I see I can do a t-bar crank (with alignment) and 2" rear shackles to fit the 31" tires (with a bit of trimming maybe)

I work in a steel fabrication shop, I can make the shackles I have found on ebay and such probably quicker than it will take me to install them... I'm just a little confused.

I read that to get a 2" lift, you need a 4" shackle... I went and measured the ones on the truck now and the bolts have a 4" c-c distance... so do I need a shackle with a c-c of 8" to get the 2" lift?

I read an article on a jeep forum that said 1" of c-c = 1/2" of lift


I'm no stranger to suspension work. Just trucks

I used to own a 1995 Grand Prix GTP lowered on coil overs and tubular arms. I now own a 1991 Olds Cutlass that will be getting lowered the same way. Only this time I am making all the parts myself, as I wasn't satisfied with the design of the previous kits.

 

every 1 inch is 1/2 lift. The stock shackles are 4 inches so that means you need 8 inch shackles

if your going to make them the holes need to be 8 inches

 

Welcome man! Glad to see some other guys here from Ontario! I'm running 31s with a t-bar crank and shackles. Mine are 7" center to center and i got about 1.5" of lift. So go with the 8". I like your jimmy by-the-way!

 

Welcome from New York.

 

It's real nice.