Hello everyone. I currently have a 92 S-10 Blazer. This is the vehicle that my wife learned to drive on. I had it in my possession for about 5 years and let some family members have it when I ran out of time for it and my family and I moved overseas for a while. Now, I have it back and looking to start the adventure of bringing this great little truck back to life. I have a lot running through my head that I would like to do, but initially just looking to get it running good so I can drive it without worry while I work on the rest. It runs now and I could drive it, but not sure about its reliability since it has been out of my care for quite a few years.

 

Welcome. I see you are in Cheney. I'm in Moscow ID south of you about 90 miles.

After my father passed away in 2000 I drove his '92 2-door 4WD for several years, selling it in 2009 at about 150k miles as I needed a 4-door. I still see it now and then on the road around town. While I had it, the only major items I had to repair/replace were the fuel injection spider and the remote oil-lines and adapter for those lines to the block.

I posted in the "free parts" section a few random parts for my old '92. They are free except for shipping.

 

Welcome from overseas

 

I live in Everett WA. As my user name describes I have an 84s10 Blazer Tahoe. Original 2.8 I just got done installing the RC 2.5" lift kit I'm now onto the summit 3" body lift and RC steering stabilizer. This last summer I went to Walker off road park and was able to follow lifted jeeps with v8's all day with no problems. We had a blast! I love the body style of the early Blazers, it's very basic. I am having trouble sourcing any kind of off road bumpers/brush guards however.

 

Welcome. I installed the RC upper control arms but not the IFS brackets from RC. I hadn't realized they had a steering stabilizer for our Blazers. After replacing a worn idler arm, I'm wondering is a stabilizer would help with preventing idler arm wear.

 

The best website I have found so far has been OutfitterDesign.com The have the Outfitter Design LLC “1 Ton Idler Arm Adapter” This allows you to run a idler arm pivot out of a 1 ton silverado and a idler arm out of a K3500. This is going to be one of my next purchases. Their ultimate build info for S10's has been a world of help. I bought thee steering stabilizer from rough country because I removed the factory sway bar from the front. I'm hoping the stabilizer will help with strength also. How do your 30's fit? I'm going with 33's. Hopefully with the 3" body lift and a little trimming it will work.

 

Thanks for the Outfitter Design contact info. I learned about this adapter after I had installed the Moog idler arm (K6251T). Hopefully the Moog part will last but it is nice to know there is another option.

The 30" tires are an easy fit with the 2" suspension lift. The tire store did a trial fit of 31's and as I had read elsewhere and on this forum, the tire would hit the frame rails when the steering is at full over to one side or another. Apparently without a body lift, the inside of the fender edges would have to be bent in a bit. I think that with 31's wheel spacers could be necessary so that there is enough clearance for the steering geometry.

Hope this helps,

Christine

 

Yes, thank you. I thought I might need spacers. I am trying to stay pretty skinny on the tire, hopefully 10.5's I like the taller skinny look and I'm hoping this will help when steering is locked out left or right. I'm not sure on your 99' but pulling the front diff on the 84' to install the RC drop bracket is really a pain! I haven't gotten to drive it yet since the install. I'm hoping to get much of what I want done over the winter months. I am working outside though which always makes everything harder.

 

For my 99 I did not install the drop bracket on the front axle: I wasn't up to doing that much "surgery" to my rig. LOL I did have the inside lip of the inside CV boot come off on one of my axles due to the increased angles. I fixed it with a hose clamp and it has been doing well for the last several months. As far as I can tell these are the original axles so perhaps if the boots had been new, this one would not have failed. I'd have to look at my notes but my total lift is likely just under 2". I did not want to push things too much with regard to the lift height.

Except for the torsion bar crank, I have the upper control arms from the RC kit in order to get a better angle for the upper ball joints (and to have stronger ball joints) and then longer shackles. Because of the ZW7 suspension, which uses special shocks with special rear springs, I could not find longer rear shocks and instead added spacers for the shocks where they attached to the body so that they are still in the middle of their range of travel.

My auto repair pretty much ends this time of year (if not earlier) as even though I have a one-car garage, it is detached which means it is cold and unheated. Also I store my 68 Mustang in it and once we get much snow, rotating out the vehicles to work on the truck is a major hassle.

Christine

 

Unfortunately I have the flange style CV axles. I would love to pick up the DANA 30 built front diff. from outfitter design however it's a little steep in price. I think I'm a little weird as for some reason I like the fact the Blazers have IFS. I know most people will tell you straight axle is the way to go for off road capabilities but I really want to stick with the IFS in my Blazer. Do you think you would ever consider a straight axle swap? How is Idaho for off road driving? I assume it's pretty great! There are some pretty good trails over here but you have to drive a couple hours to get to most. I grew up in Spokane and I go to Spirit Lake Idaho a few times in the summer. I really like Idaho. Unfortunately no Boeing there though.