I'm going to look at a 1998 4x4 4Door LS Blazer tomorrow with 192K miles. Took a quick look around and did not run across a per-purchase thread.

Are their some specific things I should look for or listen for prior to starting the negotiation process? I know the basics...looking for specific things for this Blazer.

Thanks in Advance
TGPB

 

Make sure the 4x4 works, check out the ball joints if you can. See when the last time it had a tune up was. Also, check the color and how much anti freeze is in the radiator.
While you are at it, smell the dipstick and oil cap for signs of coolant in the oil. That's all I can think of off the top of my head lol.

 

Blazers were known for a little slop in the steering. Look for this, as it means the steering box is probably worn out.

 

look under it around the front axles and look if they are wet ..if so the front diff seals bad..with that many miles it becomes a common problem ive noticed

 

Welcome from MN. I say unless that sucker is dirt cheap, don't do it, lol.

I'm wondering if that's the issue with mine. It's like driving a tractor, slop city in the steering, just awful. Best way to check and best place to get a new box?

 

The steering boxes in the Suburbans and other models were found to be defective. They wear out and the connection becomes loose resulting the wheel ring able to turn with no movement from the wheels until considerable steering input is made. This could be from the rag joint in te steering column as well.

JC Whitney has remanufactured steering boxes for $200~. Mine is pretty sloppy too and I'm gonna replace the idler/pitman arms and rag joints first, as its a little cheaper and see if that helps. If not i know it's the steering box.

 

I've replaced the idler arm already, even though it wasn't REAL bad. At that time the pitman was also checked and it didn't seem in need of replacing. That brings me back to that rag joint/steering box I guess then from the sounds of it Is the 'rag joint' a tough job? There's more than one to replace?

 

The rag joint is pretty easy to replace and check. Check it like a u-joint, grab both sides and twist back and forth looking for play. it takes one bolt and then pull it toward the firewall, then up and back towards the headlights. Just remember to lock the steering and don't turn the wheel until you connect it again or you will ruin the SIR coil.

 

That doesn't sound too bad then, thanks! I'll have to duck under there and see what I can do. I also notice a 'hissing' under the dash all of a sudden too so I gotta crawl under there anyway.

 

It's really easy to do from under the hood if you remove the air box.