Just curious who is running one of these superchargers, what you think of it, any numbers you've put down with it, etc...

I see they're around $2500, not too bad, just want to know where it'll put you HP/TQ-wise. Post some pics if you got 'em, and btw this is the kit I'm referring to...

http://www.wynjammer.com/ALM1115/GM_S10_4_3__V6.html

 

A rule of thumb is that under normal circumstances you have 14 lbs of pressure (psi) in your motor causing it to run at 100% power.

So if you add 6 psi you now have 20 psi. So doing the math if 14 psi gives 190 hp (my blazers motor at the crank) then 20 psi should put you roughly at 271 hp. Same rule goes for tq I believe so tq is normally 250 ft lbs at 14 psi add another 6 psi and you get 357 ft lbs.

For the math just take your engines

hp or tq divide by 14
then multiply by 6
then add the original number with the multiplied number

ex. 190 hp / 14 = 13.57142857142857142851429

13.571428571428571428571429 X 6 = 81.428571428571428571428571428571

81.428571428571428571428571428571 + 190 hp= 271 hp give or take one hp lol

 

Here a way that I do it I've used it for years and it as close as I have come to without a dyno I did this for a friend of mine on hiscar and was only off by 10 hp or so when the car was dynoed. This is the same formula used by many sportsman racers I got it from talking to some crews at the World Ford Challenge.
Here is an example
Take the boost that you are going to run 6 PSI (what the blower is pullied for) divided by 14.7 the atmospheres natural pressure (what an engine that is naturally aspirated is subject to), now plus 1 x base hp what the engine makes at the crank. = Boosted Hp.
Now here is the kicker the reason shops don't go by this formula is because even though an engine is rated at 190 (what your blazer is rated at) it could be over or under that number. You can take two engines built the exact same way and the number at the crank could be different.

Here is a couple other helpful formulas:
If you port your head and want to know what the hp after will be.
Take the number of cylinders x the CFM (flow of the head at the industry standard of 28" of water) then x.2575 = The HP After the Port. Also works after the valves have been machined.

25.4 mm is equal to 1 inch.

Cubic Inch if you bore or stroke your motor.
Bore x Bore x Stroke x P.I. (which is equal to 0.7854) x Number of cylinders.

Torque at any RPM provided you know what the HP is at that RPM. (HP at any RPM x 5252 divided by the rpm = torque)

HP at any rpm (same as above you have to know what the hp is)
(Torque x RPM divide by 5252 = HP)

Oh and with and automatic trans you will typicall (not always) loose around 20 percent power through the converter and trans so. Race automatics are around 15% loss.
Manuals transmissons are around 15%, race manuals that are Dog ringed of faceplate loose around 10% loss.

I guarantee these are accurate and they do work, the only formula which is just by standard of the industry an educated guess is the Boost formula ( the first formula I gave you ).

If you have any questions send me a message through the blazer forum message thing or post and I will do my best to help you out,good luck to you.

Zach

 

Isn't pi == 3.14159...?

 

Also, I noticed in the pic that the filter isn't isolated from engine bay heat. If you do decide to go this route, make sure you have a shield to get the most out of your system.

 

TBB is right the more you can isolate the incoming air charge the more efficent it will be. Heres a good example on a street drivin vehicle the STS Rear Turbo kits have proven to be more efficent the engine runs cooler and they make the same if not slighty more power than a turbo of the same size in the engine bay. The most important part is not the hp its the air charge the cooler the air the more stable and reliable your engine will be. Thats why people run intercoolers. If the kit you choose is not intercooled get the filter out of the engine bay. A friend has an S-10 extreme with a 350 and a 5 spd. He runs a supercharger (Vortech non-intercooled and he tucked the filter behind the front bumper and put a shield around to keep the rain out). The kit was installed with the filter under the hood how it would be normally and run fine but whenhe relocated it the engine picked up 2.9 hp but run almost 7 degrees cooler at idle and cooler than the runnin down the road. The hp is not the point the cooler the engine the longer it last.

 

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w...stS10Video.jpg

this is my cousins truck he built and installed it himself and sent it off to be tuned after the video was made

 

nice system i think its too much cash though lol