thats a good idea acutaly. cut bar in half with 2 inches or so out of the middle. the sleeve it with a thick tube, with pins in each end. wound need grease zerks to stop it from rustin up.


might have to try this. truing to make quick disconnects for the front is hard due to the short links. i just carry 2 9/16 wrenches and undo em

 

You guys underestimate the forces that the sway bar undergoes. A hole drilled through the sway bar will weaken it to the point where it will mostlikely break. If not, over time the hole will egg shape and ruin the swaybar.

The center of a sway bar is not the area you want to be messing with anyway. Any modification to the center section will modify it's torsional rigidity, changing how the swaybar will react. If anything, you'll want to modify one of the sides where it bends in for the end link.

I would go with what hanr3 has suggested and mimic a proven design of a quick disconnect end link. That is the safest and most reliable place to disconnect your sway bar.

 

if u can come up with one that works well. i wil take it. our endlinks are to short to mimic the jeep ones.

 

Well, we didn't have any problems this weekend at all. But, we got back Sunday night and within hours we picked up a new Superlift to install, so with new links included, we don't have that issue anymore. Shannon's friend that is installing it is going to fab some disconnects as well, so it should be a bit safer on the streets once that is installed

 

youre talking about cutting a 300~500 lb spring in half, sleeving it back together with pins, and expecting it to be reliable and act the same as an uncut spring.

would you do that on one of your front coil springs?

[sm=badidea.gif]

 

now that i think of it----a couple bolts would never hold anyways lol--and if i put big enough bolts in, the bar would break.....too bad---would have been nice to have just one pin per swaybar to disconnect them....oh well im prolly just going to go to solid front axle and flip my rear and then fab up some panhard bars instead of sways. i'll keep thinking about disconnects though. [8D]

 

i was just thinkin out loud. i already plan on solid axle once i get outs college. front and rear outa a 4 cyl xj. wil have 4.10 stock.

hell, we used to weld the springs on the mack dump trucks all the time at the stone quarry i worked for. cut em down too. was always told to make it work.

 

your best bet would be a quick connect for it because u are messin with your integrity of the sway bar the quick connect lets you disconnect the end and there is a pin so u can spin the bar up and out of the the way the twist it back down and you know quickly connect it back on for street use

 

Here is a write up of mine that may shed some light on the subject. Due to the way the 1st Gen S-10 4x4 sway bar is designed, you would not be able to build disconnects for it. However, I think it would be possible to fab the 2nd Gen S-10 4x4 sway bar to the 1st Gen.

S-10 4x4 Sway Bar Disconnects

BTW, this is my first post here!

 

Nice writeup Jeremy! And welcome!!

My only question on your disconnects is if you can get the end links tight enough with that wing nut. If there is any play in the bushings, you'll wear things out faster. But with the cost of the links... Who really cares! LOL.

You have sparked my interests though. I have a Carr Lane catalog on my desk at work. For one of my fixture designs, I had to use some threaded cam locks that I'm thinking would be perfect for this purpose. They even had some with locking pin locations to secure them. This way, you could tighten them down as much as possible by hand, then use the cam lock to put the proper compression on the link bushings. This would work much like the hardware on a bicycle axle.