1995 Chevy Blazer LT - 4 Door 4x4

I am trying to understand my next step. Both my driver's door and passenger door are out of alignment with the body ONLY at the rear of the door. The front of the door lines up perfectly, but the back of the door is 5/8" off the body line (See Pics). Also with the door opened, it does has play in it. You can still lift the door up and down like the pins are bad and the doors do have to be closed hard. I have already replaced the door pins and bushings and it didn't change a thing. Maybe I need over-sized bushings? If so, where can I find them? ....but will this help with the rear of the door alignment? There appears no adjustment to the back of the door.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Can you adjust the striker on the door jamb outward a bit? Is all your weatherstripping intact? I'm surprised your door will even close that far.

 

How would I adjust? Put washers behind the striker? or some custom plate?

***Edit*** - Disregard. I looked at the strike... its mounted horizontally.

 

If you loosen the bolts, you should be able to slide it outward a bit.

 

After which I'll find out if my weather striping is any good

 

Ted
Will we all have interesting names; hope you don't mind me making yours a little shorter. Door alignment can be tricky; my Blazer came to me with the same paint chipped off, door hanging down and held closed with a bungee cord. Striker bolted to door jam had broke all the metal it was bolted to. Door panel was broken from slamming. When I close any of my doors now they go click click. These vehicles have this problem and after they are corrected it is very important to keep them greased. I will explain how I repaired and adjusted my doors. I went to u pull it yard and found four door blazers, if back doors were tight and no slop, i removed bushings and pins. I did not buy new. I have no idea of quality of part store bushings and pins. I reasoned back door pins would be GM pins, and they were very cheap.
You said that you replace your bushings! Did they drop in or did you have to press them in? (light hammer) or bolt and nut washers and socket and pull them in. On the spring, I compressed it in the vice and put plastic tie straps on them and cut them off when they were in place. You also said that there was still play in hinges. Have somebody help you and open the door part way, and have them or you watch hinges for movement as you lift up and down on the door. Is movement in pins, or bushings? You know hinges are none adjustable? But they can be adjusted. I will explain how I do it and have done many times in past. First I like to have the striker off the door jam. When you close the door lightly you will see how far it sags. Yours matched the stripes and you want this, but with striker off it probably sags. Part of this happens as the years go by people lean on the door to get out, bending the hinges, plus the bushings wear out. Find a thin board, 1/2 or so and laid it on the rocker panel, next you want a 2x4 about four feet long. And another about sixteen inches long. We are going to left up on the door with long 2x4 near the end of it. You will place the short 2x4 on the bottom of the door, this will protect the edge of the bottom of the door from being bent over. By lifting up you will be able to bend hinges back into place. If not to much slop in them you can correct that also. Don't get carried away, check often for proper alignment. It is not unusual for door to make some sounds as you are bending the assembly. It is very important to have to shortboards inplace to protect your paint and metal. If by chance that you get it to high, roll the window down and and step thru and bounce on it with you weight. I am sorry this sounds real crude, but remember they did not give us adjustments. Gaps should all match, front, bottom, and end. Put your striker back on very lightly and push the button on the door and lightly close, this way it will not latch. Latch assembly should slide over it without rubbing. I take a light hammer and adjust striker up or down or back and forth. Tighten screws when adjustment is proper. Your picture shows the door going in to far. Your rubber molding is probably compressed from improper adjustment. On my Blazer I had to weld the jam metal where striker was bolted to it. And treads fell down inside body and had to be retrieved. Also latch was wore out from slamming door. Purchased new one from ebay. Again, all my doors shut very nice. This method sounds very unconventional and I apologize. I have done it many many times with excellent results.
Another thought, if they salt your roads, check for rust weakening the bottom of your doors and go accordingly. Spot welds can break if rusty. I hope this helps you and others that have this common problem.

 

Since you're obviously a man of few words.

FWIW, I think his name is Pete, not Ted.

 

Floyd
Well... thank you for the wealth of information.

So I will address some of your questions and update you as to my progress.

1) Originally, I did order new pins and bushings for both upper and lower hinges. DORMAN #703265 (703-265) Door Hinge Pin & Bushing Kit @ $ 2.73 ea. for each hinge from Rock Auto for both Driver's and Passenger doors. I have not done the Passenger's side yet (need a spare hand).

2) I didn't put in the Driver's side bushings & pins last time as a friend helped me and that was a couple of months ago so I can't tell you if he pressed them in. I am sure he just used a hammer as he probably didn't know the best method which is using a bolt and 4 washers; two on each side.

3) Not only did I have someone move the door up and down while I visually watched, but I also video recorded it to observe on my computer; the result is ... it has play in the lower hinge.
3) I have ordered new bushings ONLY, one set .10 oversized, and one set .20 oversized; They should be here Monday. I may have to drill out the hole, but I have a digital micrometer to check; I'll let you know how that works out. I ordered them from Total Automotive (TAI) TAI-GMB017A @ $18.64 a set and TAI-GMB017B @ $18.64 a set.

4) I do have a GM door spring compress tool so I am good there.

5) Yes I did look at the door seal and it does appear more compressed than the passenger's side. I may have to replace it; not too hard tho.

6) The body is in great shape for being 24 years old. It was undercoated, however it is coming off somewhat. I am in the process of repairing the rust under the door currently which involves grinding down to bare metal and patching with Bondo as the damage is not to severe to require replacement. No rust appears on the door jam nor around the striker. I have heard of folks losing the hardware inside, so I will watch for that.

Once I have the door movement issue resolved, I will try your door adjustment steps and update anyone else having this issue.

Thanks.

 

I took your video; clicked on settings and slowed it down to better see what was happening. I am not real sure but it appears the bottom hole in bottom hinge is sloppy causing your motion. Your bushing set will not correct this. It also looked liked the bushings were tight. I take a small acid brush and apply white grease on mine when I think on it that will help keep them tight. I also had a hole that was wore out and I placed a small spot of weld from the wire feed on the pin and bottom hole, just one side. Another reason to keep it greased, don't ever want to replace again.