Oversized door pin bushings installed :)
Thread Starter
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Super Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,968
From: Lake City, Florida
Oversized door pin bushings installed :)
Huge thanks to Captain Hook and swartlkk for tracking down and posting links to these oversized bushings!
.010 oversized
https://totalauto.com/products/detail/269027
.020 oversized
https://totalauto.com/products/detail/269030
About $25 for each kit shipped to your door, I would recommend ordering both sizes. There are no pins included, only the 4 bushings, so if you want to replace the pins too you'll need to get some of those at a local parts store.
They need to be PRESSED IN, for a $25 kit that you have to order online and wait to come in, it's best to take your time with them and not risk warping or breaking them... As suggested by Captain Hook, I used a 1/4" bolt, a nut, a couple washers, and a socket that the bushing can actually fit into, to make a quick "press", and once you get the bushings to line up straight with the hole you're pressing it into, it works like a charm!
I needed to replace my entire door because it was actually warped from the previous owner letting the door sag so bad from worn hinges and they just kept slamming it to shut it... So I figured it was a good time to tackle this, without trying to weld in the hole in the hinge to close up the gap.
As usual, it was just the upper hinge holes that was opened up. The upper is the only place I needed to use the oversized bushings in, I actually used original replacement bushings in the lower hinge (door side).
I also took the time to straighten out the bent up hinges and touch up the paint, it was all scratched up, from who knows what... did the door jam and the lower door sill area, just with some color matched spray can paint gotten from a local parts store.
Although it may have not even been needed, once I got the new oversized bushings into the top hinge holes (which by the way I ended up using a .020 in the lower and a .010 in the upper, so it was a good thing I ordered both kits in my case!), I dabbed a little JB weld into the open void beside the bushings to fill in the gap left by putting a round bushing into an oval shaped hole. Not much, just enough to add a little support on the outside of the bushings.
I put a little lube on the bushings (along the insides and flat lips that are going to contact the other half of the hinge and pivot on), lined the door up, and dropped the pins in.
The little effort to touch the paint up made the door jam much more pleasing to look at in the end lol
All that was left to do was make the new door match by removing all the pinstriping and side moldings
which I'm still in the process of, but at least the color matches lol
The door lines up SOOOO much better and closes much better now, and best of all, actually seals!
.010 oversized
https://totalauto.com/products/detail/269027
.020 oversized
https://totalauto.com/products/detail/269030
About $25 for each kit shipped to your door, I would recommend ordering both sizes. There are no pins included, only the 4 bushings, so if you want to replace the pins too you'll need to get some of those at a local parts store.
They need to be PRESSED IN, for a $25 kit that you have to order online and wait to come in, it's best to take your time with them and not risk warping or breaking them... As suggested by Captain Hook, I used a 1/4" bolt, a nut, a couple washers, and a socket that the bushing can actually fit into, to make a quick "press", and once you get the bushings to line up straight with the hole you're pressing it into, it works like a charm!
I needed to replace my entire door because it was actually warped from the previous owner letting the door sag so bad from worn hinges and they just kept slamming it to shut it... So I figured it was a good time to tackle this, without trying to weld in the hole in the hinge to close up the gap.
As usual, it was just the upper hinge holes that was opened up. The upper is the only place I needed to use the oversized bushings in, I actually used original replacement bushings in the lower hinge (door side).
I also took the time to straighten out the bent up hinges and touch up the paint, it was all scratched up, from who knows what... did the door jam and the lower door sill area, just with some color matched spray can paint gotten from a local parts store.
Although it may have not even been needed, once I got the new oversized bushings into the top hinge holes (which by the way I ended up using a .020 in the lower and a .010 in the upper, so it was a good thing I ordered both kits in my case!), I dabbed a little JB weld into the open void beside the bushings to fill in the gap left by putting a round bushing into an oval shaped hole. Not much, just enough to add a little support on the outside of the bushings.
I put a little lube on the bushings (along the insides and flat lips that are going to contact the other half of the hinge and pivot on), lined the door up, and dropped the pins in.
The little effort to touch the paint up made the door jam much more pleasing to look at in the end lol
All that was left to do was make the new door match by removing all the pinstriping and side moldings
which I'm still in the process of, but at least the color matches lolThe door lines up SOOOO much better and closes much better now, and best of all, actually seals!
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; Jul 16, 2021 at 09:58 PM. Reason: Updated outdated links to oversized bushings
Thread Starter
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Super Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,968
From: Lake City, Florida
eBay!
40" for $100 on the roof, 24" for $50 on the brush guard. Not top of the line by any means, but GOD do they throw some light!
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 393
From: Rome, GA
I know this is 100% off topic, but can you send me a pm about how you mounted that top light bar? I've been wanting another one for the roof, but I want to know I have a good way to mount it before spending the money on one.
Beginning Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
Dude, this thread was just in time. I logged on to ask if anybody had used this kit and I saw your post. Nice write up! Thanks!
I was wondering if there was a better part like this one, because I have replaced my bushings at least twice and they only seem to last about a week before you can tell that they are broken.
I was wondering if there was a better part like this one, because I have replaced my bushings at least twice and they only seem to last about a week before you can tell that they are broken.
Beginning Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 14
From: WNC
OK now some simple questions. Can't believe the timing, I have to replace the ones on my daughters Blazer about every three - 4 months and did it today again. Alway the lower part of the upper hinge, I buy the kits at the local auto store for 7-8 dollars but they don't last because of the oblong holes. Today I also used with the new bushing some industrial epoxy I use for work, gets hard as steel and it can be grinded, drilled and tapped. I've rebuild air compressors with it and have one in my garage that was junk for 5 years now so it's good stuff.
I see it says how much bigger then the original but how big is that?
Also did you have to ream your holes out any and if so how did you get in there to do it. The one I replaced today is so loose I pushed it in with my finger with no force at all so one of these kids is in my future!
Also I assume these are a little thicker f the outside diameter is larger and the pin the same size? Are they made of the same material?
I see it says how much bigger then the original but how big is that?
Also did you have to ream your holes out any and if so how did you get in there to do it. The one I replaced today is so loose I pushed it in with my finger with no force at all so one of these kids is in my future!
Also I assume these are a little thicker f the outside diameter is larger and the pin the same size? Are they made of the same material?
Last edited by 45Frank; Aug 16, 2015 at 07:43 PM.
