Ok i went to my local auto paint store to see what i need to paint my blazer. They told me to first use 400 grit wet/dry sand paper, then use1 quart of black epoxy primer with hardner then sand again with fine grit sand paper. Then they said for the next step use 1 quart of Dolphin polyester putty, again sand with fine grit. Next, to use a 2K primer surface with hardner and sand again. Then paint with black with the slow reducer, and wet/dry sand. And final step clear coat with S. top hardner. Now my question is i have watched all those shows on T.V were they custimize peoples cars (pimp my ride, etc.) and i have only seen them sand and use a silver base coat before painting, so am i missing some thing? My wife wants me to paint it canary yellow, granted it does hide blemishes better than black. But i don't know if i like that. also are there other dark colors that hide blemishes well that are not more money than black? Any help would be great


Thanks.

 

i can keep it simple for you. Go to a local PPGcarrier store likeSmyth, i know there are some around where you live. I have sprayed dupont ect ect but still like ppg clear the best. Sand the entire truck down with 400 grit sandpaper WET, when you use it wet the sandpapaer lasts MUCH longerit shouldn't take long. The reason pimp my ride, ect use asilver base is because they use less top coats and want the flake so shine thru almost like a candy. When they use solid top coats the sealer is normally white because it covers easy. Buy yourself a gallon of VALUE PRO sealer with hardener, costs us about $68 i think.

After you sand the whole body down and address the body work if there is any, mask it all up widows ect ect take out the lights/whatever you need to. You have to mask up the door jambs where you can open the door and spray it, and close it not hurting the paint. You take take and run it all the way around the door facing in, then you take papar and stick it to the tape. This is the hardest masking and gets you pissed easy. Don't forget to take the door panels off.

Next you wipe the truck off with a alcohol prep really good, don't use wax and grease remover after you use the alchohol. The W&G remover makes it really staticy pulling dirt onto it. WHen your painting thats not wanted. get yourself a good gun to shoot the sealer out of (devilbiss gti, devilbiss plus ect) get a 1.3 tip. You don't need the most expensive gun for this just one that will lay it out good.

The good thing about the sealer is its wet on wet, you don't have to wait before you start basing. You just make 1 good pass around with the sealer, then your good to go.

Heres the thing. Canary yellow won't cover worth a ****, Your looking at 4-5 coats easy for this. A gallon unreduced would be about 250 bucks minimum. Black your gallon would cost about 175 and your in business with it. It covers better than any color out there. They reducer for the paint all depends on what the booth is set at. We use dt870, which is 70 degree reducer we run the booth about 80-85 and it works great. You can get slow (80) degree reducer if you want but its completely up to you if you want to wait for it do dry. If you use 70 you can go around the truck and start your next coat as soon as you get done.

When you choose the base color you want and buy it, reduce it 1-1 and your good to go. Again if your just spraying a solid color you don't need the fanciest gun out there. Devilbiss are good for the money and i would recommend that. Black you could get away with 2 coats, yellow is a lot more. Once its covered its covered. I don't know why people say they put 10 coats of paint on there when they only need 3, unless its a candy which the color changes the more coats you put on it.

After you get it all based its time for the clear. I recommend PPG deltron 3000 with a 85 degree hardener or 70 degree. We mix the 2 together. lol. This clear is 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener. If you need some cups to measure it out i can send you some. The first coat of clear you don't want to put to much down, it should look a little rough still you just want to get some on there. The 2nd coat is where you want to take your time. Make sure you make good passes and you can watch it melt into the first coat and become smooth. after that coat your done, unless you got some issues that need attention then give them another coat.

after it dries time for wetsanding. Go get yourself a dewalt buffer and a wool buffing pad, and a polishing pad. I recommend the solo system by mcguires to buff with (compound). Solid colors take a LOT of buffing vs silvers. I wou

 

hey dude, go to SMART SHOPPERS.COM excellent polyerathane colors. excellent prices painted many many trucks with it. used viper red on my blazer 7yrs ago with ppg flakes looks beautiful today i drive it year round. u can buy a whole paint job kit for your truck from there if it cost 400 its alot. remember BLACK shows every ding,dent,dust,dirt rot the worse there is for boo-boo's. good luck bubba

 

any solid color is good if you do body work. because you can sand out all the imperfections in the clear unlike silvers, where the flake lays funny on the body work and you can see it.

 

You have been a great help. now if you just lived closer to me that would be better LOL. two more questions, 1. what is the best rust treatment, and 2. should i put the graphics i want on before the clear coat or after?

Thanks.

 

you can buy rust treatment stuff that works, it smells bad, but once you get the rust cut out and the body work done, i haven't seen rust come back. It your using vinyl graphics put them on after the clear coat. You can feel them above the surface. But if your laying your own out and painting them on, do it before the clear goes on.

 

What rust treatment would you reconmend?


Thanks

 

i cannot think of what its called. When you go to the paint store ask them, they will show you some stuff. All i know is you mix it, put it in a spray bottle and spray it on, its black..lol

 

Ok the paint stores here don't have any rust treatment like that, but they have some stuff called rustmort. Does any one know if this stuff works as good? appearently you put it on and then after leaving it sit 24 hours you spray it off with water.


Thanks

 

Sounds like POR-15...