Hi! I have an 84 Chevy s10 Tahoe, and I've had this truck for about a year. This truck needs all four door hinges replaces, not the pins or bushings, the entire hinge. My question is: how do I get them off? They don't look like they're welded on or bolted on. As of right now I don't have any doors, so any Info about this is very helpful! Thanks in advance and gave a great day!

 

They are spot welded to the body and the door. If you've never replaced hinges, they're tricky, have a body shop do it for you. The welds need to be drilled out, and the new hinges welded or bolted on in the exact same locations. If they're off a bit, you'll have problems.

 

yeah i did a set on a full sized truck not fun at all. this one was goofy too they give you little dimples where you are supposed to drill out the spot welds, well half of them werent even in the right place. then trying to get everything lined up perfectly to get the door closed again, ill never do it again.

if your holes are rounded out maybe they sell a repair kit or something you can weld in instead of dealing with this headache

 

I cut the original hinges off because I was having the same problem. They let it go to long and the bushings would no longer stay in the body half of the hinges. I thought I would get creative and use the door hinges off an F-body vehicle since they are thick and bolt on. I am still fighting getting them adjusted correctly. Each hinge has multiple axises that must be delt with. There is no easy way around it, you're hosed no matter what method you choose to make the repair.

 

i got a copper rod about 5/8 inch in diameter and turned it on a lath to the bushing size too both bushing sizes on the ends..

then then ground a flat on each end of it so it is round with a flat spot on the side..

i could then use my wire welder to weld up the spot in the hinge that was worn larger..

the flat you grind in the copper slug will let you weld the slop out of the hole.

the weld will not stick to the copper so when you are done welding it will come right out..

then press in new bushings into your hinge and put your door back on..

if you have any trouble pm me and i will do what i can to help you out..

 

Here's the simple answer for a worn out upper hinge, (body half of hinge), and a worn out lower hinge, (door half of hinge). They are brass, not bronze, and they work fantastic. They must be pressed in, not pounded in. 1/4 x 20 bolt, 2 washers, one 3/8" drive socket of the appropriate size, and a nut, does the job. 45 minutes for ONE person, per door, start to finish. One person??? Yup, toss a ratchet strap over a ceiling joist, loop it through the window opening, take the weight off, and replace the bushings. Nothin' to it. $20 per door with super fast shipping.


.010" oversize:
Catalog :: Total Automotive Hinge Kit Solutions


.020" oversize:
Catalog :: Total Automotive Hinge Kit Solutions

 

HOT DAMN, ORDERING NOW!!! lol

Thank you so much! I've been trying to find oversized bushings but have been coming up empty handed. Think I'll go with .020, mine are pretty well SHOT on the driver's door...

 

I keep both on hand, .010 takes up a LOT of slop, more than you'd think. If you try to press the .020 in, and the hole isn't hogged out enough, it will compress the ID of the bushing and make the pin fit too tight. Make sure the door and body halves of both hinges are square. Lot of times the uppers will get squeezed together, or pushed downward causing a binding condition. I use a steel ruler with the corners rounded down so it fits tight against the back of the hinge. Hold a light behind to check for square. Once you get the door off, you'll see what I mean. Usually only takes a whack or two with a good hammer to square 'em up.


Sometimes you can get away with standard bushings in the lower hinge. Just gotta make sure the bushing does NOT turn in the hinge, needs to be pressed in.

 

Oh I know my upper hinge on the body side is squeezed together lol it's very visible. Both holes on the body side of the upper hinge are egged out. I might go ahead and order the .010 too, just in case; try the .010 first.

Do you need to drill the hole out first and make it circular or will the extra size take up the gap?

Thanks again

 

Don't drill it. When the old bushing wears through, the pin contacts the hinge and elongates the hole in the hinge. The pin has a smaller diameter and the new bushing will not fit into the worn part. When you press the new bushing in, it will "find" the original hole.