well jsut to say..EW i hate these shape mirrors...but...the real issue here is..my left side mirror is loose, this stupid fat a$$ decided the day i took it to career link..it was his leaning post...first he went to sit on the bug deflector i said "hey big boy dont evne think about it you break that..you JUSt bought it!", so what does he do...goes and leans on my mirror...so now its loose

a while ago when i had the door pannel mostly off and stupidly broke a window clip *how hard are those to fix and how do i do that?* the only parts of the door i can get off are the bottom and sides...dunno how to get the top off..i think..the door handle has to come off...no clue how to do that either..but the other day driving..i hit a good...79/80 mph...man..that mirror was doin some serious jiggeling...i can't use it when driving..have to use my rear view and right side mirror..any one have pics or some thign on how to get the door off?...and what tool i'll need?..and where the window clip is and how to fix it too...i figure fix'em both while the door is off...instead of farting around 2 different times.

 

Yeah, I hate those mirrors too. They are uglier and a weaker design than the later ones. Each one is held on by three bolts. If one bolt breaks, the mirror will be loose, and the others will eventually break due to the weight of the mirror against the wind. (Ask me how I know this.) I did this replacement this past summer.

The good news is that the cooler 98+ mirrors fit on our older trucks. For $30, I got a pair in pristine condition from a junked 2000 truck.

The bad news is that the wiring is different. I tried for a couple of hours to figure out which wires matched up from the old ones to the new ones, but I gave up and just left them unconnected. What information I did find on this was confusing, so you may have to just try each wire, one at a time. However, it doesn't really matter, because you can still adjust it manually, and it will stay in that spot until somebody else drives your truck. In the meantime, I taped the wiring to right under the switch panel in the door, so that I won't have to completely remove the door panel again, if I decide to try again later at connecting the wiring.

Regarding the door panel: there is a screw right beneath the door handle. You must remove it, as well as the door handle cover. Then the panel will completely come off. Putting it back on is a little harder, because you must be sure it clicks properly into the groove, and you want to make sure the door lock still works properly. Get this wrong, and rain will get into your truck later. The key is to just take your time and not rush. As for the clips, you can probably also swipe those from the truck you got the mirrors from. The key is you gotta be the first to get to the truck, because doors and mirrors are often about the first things to disappear at the yard. Big demand...

Another tip: Put a magnet on your ratchet. This will help keep you from accidentally dropping nuts into the door. Once they fall in there, they're pretty much lost forever. That's also why it's a good idea to grab the nuts from the truck you swiped the new mirrors from. (Okay, that sounded a little wrong.) That way you still have spares in case you lose a couple.

Anyhoo...good luck!

P.S. Oh yeah, tools...you don't need much. All you need is a ratchet with metric sockets. I believe it's 11mm, but I'm not completely sure. (Just about all Blazer bolts are metric.) And a deep socket makes it easier to reach. To remove the panel, you only need a phillips screwdriver for that one screw. I also replaced the cheap plastic screws with metal self-threaders, though you don't have to do that. The panel then pops right out. Just be gentle with it, so you don't break the tabs.

 

You forgot about the 2 7mm bolts under the door pull. Those have to come off as well.