IMO the best MPG mods are keeping tires inflated properly, alignment, Delco electrics, O2 sensors in check, filters changed regularly, a bottle of gas line/injector cleaner every 3 tanks or so for good measure. CAI sounds great, may help a bit for MPG in lower mph & the same with freeing up the exhaust a bit. But a single in/dual out will still have the bottle neck of the Y pipe before it hits the muffler. Same with a high flow cat. True duals & headers are expensive & not worth it unless the engine has been modified to make use of it.

Oh yeah, the single most gas saving thing you can do is not drive like you stole it! Keep the revs under 2500 while accelerating.
My ride? I know nothing for gas mileage lol... a friend who has a 2000 Ford Excursion V10 said: if you have a super charger or a V10, you're not thinking about miles per gallon, you don't care!

 

Warm air intake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

That is EXACTLY why people say 'dont trust wikipedia'!

One guy one paper and one of two references 'carburetor heat' which is a WHOLE DIFFERENT concept.
I dont mind out of the box concepts, I dont mind that public money pays his salary but I sure would like someone to go in there and blow that out of the water.
Evidently not all the educated idiots are in the climate sciences. Want to support your theory? Ignore all empirical facts and data to the contrary.

Now.. lets address the 'work' expended in pulling against intake restrictions:

Yes.. there is more power required on the intake stroke to pull against a vacuum of up to 10 lbs.. which is immediately made up for by the lesser pressure/force required for the compression stroke.
- This is why I hoot at the idea CAI's improve economy.

Test it for yourself. Have a small compressor? Put your hand or thumb over the intake port.

Is there something to it? Yeah.. that's why there is 'Direct Injection'. But that has a whole new set of considerations, doesnt it? So.. if you want to build a WAI for the warmup cycle, to include a diversion butterfly, have at it and report the results. IMO it isnt worth it for the short period of time that it has an effect.

 

.,What about upgrading your rotor cap coil and wires to a higher voltage Setup.?

 

You mean MSD? Have at it. There's already enough problems with that cap though. Good idea in theory and test but hard to maintain quality in the molding process. The window, for practicality, is now closed but it would have been cool for someone to have done a coil-pack upgrade. Coil on plug might be an idea.
Would involve a logic latch set by injector firing, and triggered by the ign module.

If there was a microcontroller freak on here, I'd partner up to design a 'lean burn' spoofing system for warm idle in park, and highway cruise.
SHOULD be able to do that with EGR tuning alone.. dunno why it doesnt seem to affect. I think adding an exhaust gas temp monitor is needed for that.

 

For my truck I can get an accel coil pushing 48,000 volts, which is more than stock for the same price as a stock coil. More volts, better burn, better mileage. Seems logical, James Kirk?

 

It isn't that much more than stock (IIRC, stock is 45k) and less reliable IMO. Stick with stock ignition components or you'll be chasing problems!

 

Ok let me start with I know I'm like 2yrs late to this thread but anyways if you haven't done these things yet you should. I will recommended you do these two mods separately and see how much it helps with first mod, if you want more. Then do second mod. Reason being once you do the second mod it irreversible. So ok, first your gonna want to remove your MAF sensor and housing, then remove the housing from your MAF sensor. You do this to ensure you don't damage your sensor cuz that wud b bad. So now take the side of the housing with the honeycomb in it, and then remove the screening(honeycomb). That which once put back together and reinstalled it will free up the flow of air thru your air duct from filter to TB... After doing this and driving then calculating your new mpg, you shud see a increase in mileage as I did. I went from 14mpg to roughly 19mpg, but I wanted more so I did the next one. Now the second mod is a little more involved, this mod requires taking out the TB butterfly plate(plate inside your TB), on the underside of the plate there is a baffle. Its like a curved 1/4 bubble piece of metal, that is riveted to the plate. So now this is important do NOT drill out the rivets, get yourself an hacksaw and cut the baffle off leaving approximately a 1/8" of the baffle curve on the plate that small of a lipp won't matter. Before reinstalling clean both plate and inside TB since you already have the plate off. Its just stupid not too. Now after I did this my mpg went up to roughly 23mpg. So from beginning to end I went from 14 to 23mpg thts pretty good when you consider it didn't cost me a dime. Now before doing this I did already have an K&N air filter but it was in factory box which I cut bottom side of box out and put a metal screen over that on the side opposing the engine. Oh yea, another mod I jus recently found was taking the plastic tubing coming out of pass side valve cover to the backside of air duct that sits atop of the TB. Removing it and cutting it using a portion to extend from valve cover and then buying two of the really small cone filters. You can find in any parts store, one goes into the rubber elbow at the back of TB air duct. The other I had to carefully carve away the rubber so that it would fit inside of the tubing I cut at the beginning, so tht it wud work with the valve cover cuz on mine there is no room for jus the filter to fit. After doing this I haven't really had time to really judge the increase but I did top it off and the New numbers I got showed 24.7mpg so almost an additional 2mpg but that.took spending about $20. So hope it helps, if not you then maybe someone else looking. An hey if anyone else knows some do it yourself mods let me know, I'm up for suggestions. An for all the grammar nutts I'm not an English major so don't start wit that carp, this is a mechanics forum jus answer the questions or keep it to yourself. Plzzzz ty... yes tht is txt talk... lol

 

Hi, Stretch.chad,


Does this work at a '02 blazer?
Do you have pictures for me where I can see how you did this all?
thanx alot.

 

Both the throttle blade & MAF "mods" have been discussed before and in much more detail in other threads. I had measured all of the openings in the intake system to show the futility of descreening the MAF sensor in one thread somewhere around here. Anyway, I had done both on my old 2000 Bravada with no appreciable change in mileage.

The MAF screen removal resulted in VERY erratic MAF sensor readings as viewed from my Autotap scantool that I had at the time and, in multiple accounts here, no real gain in MPGs over a long period of monitoring mileage. Over a 10k mile interval before I went back to a stock MAF with screen in place I noticed no change in mileage and the aforementioned erratic MAF signal. The reason for the screen is to straighten out the air flow over the sensor elements so that the PCM gets a good average reading of the air going through the sensor and into the engine. The MAF sensor with screen still represents a much larger area than the throttle body opening making any gains from this "mod" insignificant at best and actually detrimental to performance at worse. Any gains from removing the screen are a result of changed driving habits during the observation interval.

The throttle blade mod only increases the sensitivity of the throttle. Over a long period (just over 20k miles) of driving without the deflector, I noted a difference in spark plug color from the front three cylinders to the back three with the back three being MUCH cleaner. Leaving an 1/8" of the deflector in place will help to alleviate this problem as the deflector serves to cut off airflow from the front side of the throttle blade at low throttle angles, pushing air towards the center of the intake plenum allowing incoming fresh air to properly mix with the EGR gasses before entering the runner to the cylinders. Same as with the MAF descreening, I noticed no change in mileage over an extended interval. The throttle sensitivity also got kind of annoying.