4wd actuator
#1
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22

I have an 01 zr2 with a 6 inch lift and 33s.
When i got about a month ago the 4wd didnt work. So i put a new actuator in, the old one was trash. Now a month later after i have used the 4wd maybe 2 times the actuator is all torn up again. Is there something wrong with the cable that could rip it. and it is NOT mounted under the battery, its down under behind the front bumper kinda maybe that has something to do with it? I dont know. PLEASE HELP DONT WANT TO REPLACE EVERY MONTH
thank you
When i got about a month ago the 4wd didnt work. So i put a new actuator in, the old one was trash. Now a month later after i have used the 4wd maybe 2 times the actuator is all torn up again. Is there something wrong with the cable that could rip it. and it is NOT mounted under the battery, its down under behind the front bumper kinda maybe that has something to do with it? I dont know. PLEASE HELP DONT WANT TO REPLACE EVERY MONTH
thank you
#3
Check out doing the posilock mod. It eliminates the actuator all together so no more worries of it tearing. I did it for about $40 and an hour or two figuring everything out. I have a write up with pics and required parts in my build thread.
#5
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22

Its the push button type.
but i do like that posilock mod. So tell me if im wrong but that compression fitting creates the vacuum that locks in the hubs when you pull the cable? And then you push it to release or pull it again?
but i do like that posilock mod. So tell me if im wrong but that compression fitting creates the vacuum that locks in the hubs when you pull the cable? And then you push it to release or pull it again?
Last edited by seanblazer; 05-26-2013 at 04:39 PM.
#7
The compression fitting was my way of holding the cable in line and providing a "support" to pull against if you will. There is no vacuum involved in locking the front diff with this mod. The cable is self locking with a twist motion so you twist to unlock pull and then twist to relock.
#8
Beginning Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22

so the vac line that goes to the actuator is from the transfer case and the actuator pulls the cable and holds it out with the vacuum. pulling the cable and holding it out engages the front dif.. I was thinking the cable pushed the actuator creating a vacuum that went to the front dif. which is backwards. correct?
And I dont recall if there was trans fluid in the actuator but i feel like there might have been. I dont have it anymore to check though.
And I dont recall if there was trans fluid in the actuator but i feel like there might have been. I dont have it anymore to check though.
Last edited by seanblazer; 05-27-2013 at 12:52 AM.
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