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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 07:21 PM
  #1  
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Default Ball joints

I have a 1998 Blazer 4x4 that I have had for about 5 years now. I have had the ball joints replaced 2 times in the last 5 years and now they need replaced again. The shop is wanting $400-$450 to replace them, is this something that is easy to do or should I pay them again for it? I do know a little about working on this blazer I have replaced the tranny myself.
 
Old Feb 7, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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your gonna need a balljoint separator, which if you have an air chisel will work. its basically a pickle fork that pops the joint out of the slot the ball joint sits in. since they've been replaced before you wont have to drill out rivets, they should be bolted in.

heres a link that should help https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-articles-diy-29/factory-ball-joint-replacement-27627/

the only difference is you will not have to drill out rivets.
hope it helps
 

Last edited by Spectreblazer; Feb 7, 2010 at 07:29 PM.
Old Feb 8, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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you dont need an air chisel, a ball joint separtor is nice but you don need that either, the uppers are just bolted in the lowers are preesed in, you need a socket or wrench set and a decent hammer and you need to rent a ball joint press for the lowers
 
Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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Wink

Remove the cotter pin on the knuckle and remove the ball joint nut using 22mm wrench.
Strike the knuckle to dislodge the joint.
should come out, especially if they've been replaced before

should be an easy 2 hour fix at max, heck if that(rookie time). haha
cheap too
 
Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 515Blazer
you dont need an air chisel, a ball joint separtor is nice but you don need that either, the uppers are just bolted in the lowers are preesed in, you need a socket or wrench set and a decent hammer and you need to rent a ball joint press for the lowers
I am not sure what you are working on, but the ball joints on the 4wd s-series trucks are riveted in stock. Nothing is pressed in. The ball joint separator is for aiding in the release of the tapered portion of the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Since the OP has had replacement ball joints installed, they will likely be bolted in (unless he has had the whole control arm replaced). As stated though, often a quick, sharp blow to the steering knuckle near the ball joint will free it.
 
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