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Old 03-06-2006, 02:04 AM
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Default ball joints

Hello everyone,

I just bought a '90 full size blazer which turned out to have bad ball joints, Since I have worked on all types of vehicles on and off for 15 years, I quickly went to the parts store and bought all the parts I needed and some I didn't. I then attempted to replace the ball joints, I removed everything according to the "shop manual" but when I got to the point of removing the joints and knuckle I #1 could not get a wrench on the bottom ball joint nut, after about 1/2 hour I cut the nut off but much to my dismay there is not enough room for the ball joints and the knuckle, to come free, the shaft is in the way. [:@]

I am figuring that I am not doing things it the right order or there is a "secret" , rather than it just being an impossible job.

Meanwhile my poor Blazer has been upon stands for a couple of weeks. Please help[&o]


Thanks ahead of time.
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:44 AM
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Default RE: ball joints

Hi tom1337. You may have to drill them out.

I had to chisel 3 rivets out per ball joint to get mine out. I don't have air tools. I went through a few drill bits to drill them out the best I could. Then I proceeded to use an awl and hammer and banged them out. Got alignment done and it hanldes like it was new.[sm=icon_rock.gif]

P.S. now would be a goood time to check the inner and outer tie rods!
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 01:13 PM
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Default RE: ball joints

Yes, they are riveted in. A cold chisel will work for this.
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:28 PM
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Default RE: ball joints


ORIGINAL: 4lowlife

Hi tom1337. You may have to drill them out.

I had to chisel 3 rivets out per ball joint to get mine out. I don't have air tools. I went through a few drill bits to drill them out the best I could. Then I proceeded to use an awl and hammer and banged them out. Got alignment done and it hanldes like it was new.[sm=icon_rock.gif]

P.S. now would be a goood time to check the inner and outer tie rods!

Werd on that bro...that's how I did it with a bud of mine to his suburban...found no other way...[:@]
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:37 PM
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Default RE: ball joints

I found it MUCH easier to deal with by pressing the driveshaft out of the steering knuckle. You don't have to completely remove the driveshaft from the wheel bearing, but it may just be easier to do so. Remember, if you do this, your steering knuckle will only be attached by the brake line and the steering linkage (tierod). This opens up TONS of room to get in there and do the work to the lower control arm.
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:44 PM
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Default RE: ball joints

Thanks for the replies.

I have seen the riveted balljoints before and are fairly easy to do but my '90 does not use this method. The upper balljoint is pressed into the knuckle, and after grease is packed into the joint, the zerk fitting is then removed and a plug put in place due to clearance issues with the shaft, and the threaded end then goes into the yoke where there is an adjusting sleeve and gets a castle nut and a cotter pin.
The bottom ball joint is also pressed into the knuckle and a snap ring is installed on the bottom, the threaded end is shorter and goes into the yoke (about 1/4" of the threwads showing) followed by a nut, which I can not get any tool on to remove it

I could solve the problem by using the plasma cutters on the shafts, but even though the whole thingwill just fall out, but I would be in the same trouble when trying to install.
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 06:35 PM
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Default RE: ball joints

I think I have an idea let me know what you think. I am not sure how the axle is classified (full or semi floating) but when I said I could not remove the axle (this just came to me and I ran out to check) this was by a small margin, the U joint connecting the inner and outer axle shaft are welded in place (probably a consumable part), I do not see this on new axleshafts as they have replacable U joints. Anyway I was thinking that if I ground down just a very little (and I do mean little) of the weld then the shafts would be easily removed giving me all the room in the world.

Are the axle shafts suposed to be removed before attempting to replace the ball joints the shop manual does not say if this is a step, maybe assuming that it would be obvious.
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:19 PM
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Default RE: ball joints

Are the axle shafts suposed to be removed before attempting to replace the ball joints the shop manual does not say if this is a step, maybe assuming that it would be obvious.
Not on mine. I disconnected the ABS wire and had to remove the ABS wheelbearing/hub. It is attached on the spindle w/ 3 bolts. (remove the 36mm nut first,) I don't have a gear puller so I used 2 C clamps and a 2x4 to pull out the wheelbearing/hub.

I don't know if you have the same setup. With that out of the way I popped the joints out w/ a fork.
 
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:39 AM
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Default RE: ball joints

Same difference. Whether you press the axle out through the wheel-bearing/hub or pull the whole wheel-bearing/hub. It's just safer to remove the axle from the wheel-bearing/hub than it is to remove the wheel-bearing/hub. Technically speaking, the press ring around the hub should be only used 1 time and never removed again. It can be done, but if it gets nicked in anyway, you could open up the press fit causing the hub to not seat correctly and other problems could result.

I'm trying to remember the construction of the front axle on your '90 Fullsize. This should be the GM torsion bar independant suspension much the same as what the s-series 4x4s have. Here's a run through of what I found on FullSizeChevy.com:
to replace the balljoints on an 89 4x4 you don't have to have a balljoint press, both the upper and lower balljoint's are riveted to the control arms with large steel rivets. All you have to do is raise the vehicle and support the lower control arms with jackstands,remove the wheel, remove your tie rod, then remove your CV axle nut from the center of the hub, and take your upper and lower ball joint nuts loose(not all the way off, just loose enough so you can see 4-5 threads between the nut and the steering knuckle) and at the steering knuckle where the stud of the ball joint goes through it, whack the hell out off the knuckle with a heavy hammer, at the upper joint and at the lower joint. Beating the hell out of the knucle will break the press fit tapered studs loose from thier holes, thus avoiding the use of a balljoint seperator, once the studs are loose remove the upper nut all the way and pickup on the upper arm, this will let the knucle tilt out towards you(your CV axle may take some persuasion to be pushed through the hub and out the backside) grab the knuckle assembly firmly and lift up a little bit and remove the lower nut, now rest th whole knuckle, rotor, caliper assembly on a large block of wood or somethin similar, but dont drop it because you will break you brake hose, now you will need to grind the heads off of the rivets with a small sidegrinder and use a hammer and punch to drive the rivets out of the control arms. your new ball joints will come with bolts, nuts, and lock washers to bolt them onto the control arms, once you finish bolting in the new balljoints reassemble the knuckle, axle, and control arms in reverse order, and repeat for the other side. If my explanation of hitting the knuckle with a hammer to get the studs loose from thier holes is good enough for you to figure out what I'm talking about then that will elimnate the use for a balljoint separator, and the fact that an 89 4X4 has riveted in balljoints rather than press fit eliminates the need for a balljoint press, so other than a sidegrinder and a large enough socket to remove the axle nut you can do this job with simple hand tools. hope this helps you out, and hope I explained it so you can visualize what I'm talking about, I have probably done 50-100 sets of balljoints on all different makes of trucks and cars, so if you have any questions feel free to ask, John
An '89 C/K 1500 pickup should have the same front suspension as your '90 Blazer. If you have a digital camera, please take a pic and post up if you have the capabilities (if not, PM me and I'll get it up here for you). Please let us know more.

*EDIT* - I just did some searching in the online parts stores and did find some available upper and lower ball joints for your '90 Blazer that were press in. I know that Autozone and Advanced Auto has a ball joint press tool that you can rent from them to make the job easier. I also found out that if you have the stamped steel control arms, you'll have ball joints held on by rivets. If you have the cast iron control arms, then you'll have pressed in ball joints. I'm not sure if this is entirely correct, but it seems that the General used these different c
 
  #10  
Old 03-07-2006, 01:08 AM
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Default RE: ball joints

Actualy my Blazer has a solid axle leaf spring shock combo. I think it was the last year these were made without independent front suspension. It is a beast even if the ride is a bit stiff.

The information you found is correct I have the cast iron setup arms, knuckle etc. I called local advanced auto to rent a press but they had none I called a couple more and autozone w/ no luck.

Tomorrow I will take some pics and try to post them (I have to use dial up and my lovely phone lines are in horrible shape and I have been having problems with them for the past few days.)
 


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