ok guys and gals i need some reccomendations on ball joints. i replaced mine about3 months ago and theyre smoked already.

 

Skyjacker makes good ball joints. I'm not sure if it has to be used in conjuction with the skyjacker lift, but we have the whole shebag on the Jeep and have not had a moment's trouble.

 

I have an 87 K5 that took a nose dive into the pavement at about 50mph when the front/pass left the vehicle. I'm going to replace most of the suspension components and the ball joints. This vehicle has a 4" lift and 35s and goes on and off road. Its driven mostly by my 18 year old, so I want the front end tight and as durable as I can get it. Any suggestions on where to go to get the parts? Does anyone sell a "Front End Rebuild Kit" that would have all the components in it?

Thanks.

TJ

 

I would just go to an autoparts store and get some replacement joints and suspension parts, then install them correctly. As long as ther is no frame warpage, everything should be great.

 

For ball joints I've heard good things about Moog. Myself i just had to replace my driver's side upper and lower ones just yesterday and i was just concerned about getting them in and not so much what brand so i just got a set from checker and they are holding up just nicely. Of course just make sure you get the greasable ones and fill them with some red grease and you'll be just fine. Of course what also keeps longevity is to pump a little grease in them at each oil change. Makes sure they dont go dry.

 

The front pass wheel/tire left the vehicle. I had replaced wheel studs, retorqued them at least twice, but that obviously wasn't enough. The lugs loosened up, eventually backed off, and the tire/wheel left the vehicle. It was on a country, two lane road. No, there wasn't any indication, vibe or other warning. The only indication was when the front end dropped and slammed into the pavement. Luckily it was 0230 in the A.M. and there was no traffic. Needless to say, it was wild ride - having spent most of my adult life as an Army maintenance test pilot is the only thing that kept it from rolling (not unlike a "cyclic hardover" emer. procedure). I got it off the road, onto the shoulder and walked home. The next morning I found the wheel/tire about a quarter mile away - thank God it didn't hit anything, but it did cross the road as it came to rest on the opposite side. I got some new lug nuts and put it back on and drove it home. The brake disc had been ground down about an inch and half. I replaced the brake disc and it felt Ok, but pulls to the right now (gee, I wonder why?). Shortly after, the XMSN died, so it sat for a couple of years. I just put a new 700R4 and tqe convertor in it, so its now also time to fix the front end. Anyone use one of the ball joint presses? Do these work, or do you end up having to pull the whole thing apart anyway. I've got an 11 ton press, but if can avoid some unnecessary disassembly, all the better.

Tom

 

moog are the way to go. and the press does help a little, after you figure out how it all goes together!

 

Does Raybestos make suspension parts? Or is it only brakes?

 

im still lookin in to some but thanks for the help guys! and ive already replaced my drivers side and it was a fairly easy job

 

Hi Folks!

I just purchased a 2000 4WD Blazer and the ball jointswere found out to being very bad condition. Dealer wanted$ 900 to replace of them so off to do myself.Well first off, I went and purchased uppers and lower ball joints from Auto zone (Duracraft)and guess what I had the correct part # for my auto but the bolt holes did not align up when I went to install uppers.Went to NAPA and they helped me out and now have correct ball joints.

I went and drilled out the OEM rivets using cold chisel and etc and have all the rivets out but now I cannot free-up thewheel and hub assy! I tried everything, PB soak overnight, 3 LB metal hammer to end of shaft pounded the living day lights out of it, used a 3 claw puller on to the wheel hub (where the wheel rim bolts on) and used a small propane torch and put the heat between the CV joint and near the bearing. I may need now to have the auto taken toa garage if I cannot get this assy free and off to install lower ball joint? Also I have read on the post you need to pound the heck out of it to free-up. I also damaged the thread on the shaft. What size die will repair?

Thank-you for helping me out in this dire need for help?

Michael