Control Arm Bushings
#1
Control Arm Bushings
Need to replace the upper control arm bushings in my '02 4dr 4wd Blazer, rubber bushings are looking really bad. Anyways I wanted to ask opinions of replacing with poly bushings but I would leave the rubber bushings in the lower control arms. I have replaced control arm bushings before, but did both upper and lower and this time I would just do the uppers.
Would I be causing a problem? I know the poly kits come with both sets, but I would likely not do the lowers until later on.
Thanks
Would I be causing a problem? I know the poly kits come with both sets, but I would likely not do the lowers until later on.
Thanks
#3
Need to replace the upper control arm bushings in my '02 4dr 4wd Blazer, rubber bushings are looking really bad. Anyways I wanted to ask opinions of replacing with poly bushings but I would leave the rubber bushings in the lower control arms. I have replaced control arm bushings before, but did both upper and lower and this time I would just do the uppers.
Would I be causing a problem? I know the poly kits come with both sets, but I would likely not do the lowers until later on.
Thanks
Would I be causing a problem? I know the poly kits come with both sets, but I would likely not do the lowers until later on.
Thanks
Why do you need poly bushings in your 4WD Blazer? Not going around corners fast, are you? But you will be fine in any case. Lowers will last forever.
Last edited by LesMyer; 01-04-2016 at 02:45 PM.
#4
The only reason I would not replace the lower control arm bushings at the same time as the uppers is just a matter of down time and dealing with the t-bars.
I was going to use poly bushings only because I have been able to press them in without the use of a hydraulic press. Not sure if I can get the old rubber bushing shells out and new rubber bushing shells in without finding someone with a hydraulic press....or can I????
I was going to use poly bushings only because I have been able to press them in without the use of a hydraulic press. Not sure if I can get the old rubber bushing shells out and new rubber bushing shells in without finding someone with a hydraulic press....or can I????
#5
Are you planning on re-using the bushing shells? I have never re-used bushing shells, but I know you can buy the poly bushings without the shells. Key would be to get out all of the old rubber which is pretty much molded in place. This must be what you have done before? I have no experience with that. I have heard that you can burn out the rubber with a torch, leaving just the shell and install the poly bushing into that. Doesn't seem like it would be nearly as good as new shells too, but I suppose it would work.
But if you want to replace shells + poly bushings - or replace with regular rubber bushing assemblies....... Advance Auto Parts has a loaner bushing replacement kit ($180 deposit). It has some useful tools in it like cups to pull the bushings into and cups to press with and a press arm + a lot more I apparently didn't need.
For my 2WD lowers I found it easiest to buy a 1/2" threaded rod with washers/nuts and pull the bushing shell out into the cup (from kit) with an appropriately sized socket (slightly under bushing shell OD but not too small either). The socket that I used to press the bushing out ended up trashed from beating on it while tightening the nuts on the threaded rod - it was the only casualty and I knew I was sacrificing it when I first started beating on it to break the bushing shell loose. I could not find an appropriate combo of just the kit parts that would move the bushings in the lower control arms. I did have to grind off some of the rubber in the bushing for the socket to sit directly on the metal shell using a dremel with a wood shaping bit. I used another socket as a spacer in the bushing area to prevent bending of the control arm. Then to put bushing shell in, used the socket as a spacer, had wife hold the a-frame on the bushing cup, and drove the shell in the other side with the end of a teated 12" long 4x4 using a 3# hammer (going in was 30 seconds and easy). Treated 4x4 will not splinter or crack. If you put in shells that have rubber bushings, the 4x4 trick probably won't work without something to sit directly on the bushing shell that will clear the rubber- be creative. For poly bushings, you simply put them in after the shell is in place.
For the uppers (on a 2WD with the cross shaft), I used just components from the bushing kit (they are really pretty special tools) to press them in and out.
It's really not that bad, but it can be time consuming to figure out what will work for your particular situation and you need to be patient especially when pulling out the old shells. Also be aware that the previous user may have beaten the tools in the kit to death (FUBAR'd), so don't just take a loaner kit home from your parts store without looking it over.
Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.
But if you want to replace shells + poly bushings - or replace with regular rubber bushing assemblies....... Advance Auto Parts has a loaner bushing replacement kit ($180 deposit). It has some useful tools in it like cups to pull the bushings into and cups to press with and a press arm + a lot more I apparently didn't need.
For my 2WD lowers I found it easiest to buy a 1/2" threaded rod with washers/nuts and pull the bushing shell out into the cup (from kit) with an appropriately sized socket (slightly under bushing shell OD but not too small either). The socket that I used to press the bushing out ended up trashed from beating on it while tightening the nuts on the threaded rod - it was the only casualty and I knew I was sacrificing it when I first started beating on it to break the bushing shell loose. I could not find an appropriate combo of just the kit parts that would move the bushings in the lower control arms. I did have to grind off some of the rubber in the bushing for the socket to sit directly on the metal shell using a dremel with a wood shaping bit. I used another socket as a spacer in the bushing area to prevent bending of the control arm. Then to put bushing shell in, used the socket as a spacer, had wife hold the a-frame on the bushing cup, and drove the shell in the other side with the end of a teated 12" long 4x4 using a 3# hammer (going in was 30 seconds and easy). Treated 4x4 will not splinter or crack. If you put in shells that have rubber bushings, the 4x4 trick probably won't work without something to sit directly on the bushing shell that will clear the rubber- be creative. For poly bushings, you simply put them in after the shell is in place.
For the uppers (on a 2WD with the cross shaft), I used just components from the bushing kit (they are really pretty special tools) to press them in and out.
It's really not that bad, but it can be time consuming to figure out what will work for your particular situation and you need to be patient especially when pulling out the old shells. Also be aware that the previous user may have beaten the tools in the kit to death (FUBAR'd), so don't just take a loaner kit home from your parts store without looking it over.
Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.
Last edited by LesMyer; 01-05-2016 at 08:20 AM.
#6
Have changed my mind and going to replace upper control arm bushings with rubber and do the ball joints while I have the control arms off; I have replaced the lower ball joints couple of years ago.
Will probably replace the front cover and oil pan gasket all at the same "down time" which involves lowering the front diff down a bit. Lots of "quality" time ahead for me and my Blazer.
Will probably replace the front cover and oil pan gasket all at the same "down time" which involves lowering the front diff down a bit. Lots of "quality" time ahead for me and my Blazer.
#7
I have used short pieces of iron water pipe and fittings from homey despot as cups and spacers, and keep them in my kit. I bought a ODR or whatever the name is bearing press kit maybe 5 years ago from e-pay for around $80, IIRC. All the parts were still in like-new condition, the PO had used the kit only once. I'd rented the same kit before I bought it and most the pieces were, indeed, FUBARed.
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