I have a clicking noise on a 2001 Bravada with SmartTrack that I think is coming from the front driver side tire. It sounds like there is a rock in the tire but I can hear it driving on snow packed roads. If it were a rock, it wouldnt hit anything hard and make the noise. I plan on digging into it in the morn. I just had a couple questions and lookin for more ideas.

Since the front drive train is always spinning Im thinkin it might be the cv joint but I dont have a lot of experience with them. I was wondering how I can visually or manually tell if the cv joint and shaft are bad. I dont think the noise gets worse when turning. If it where a wheel bearing I would hear the noise more so when Im turning, correct?

The transfer case control module is currently out and bein there is a lot of snow here and the city doesnt plow till the week after the storm, I know that the front drive train is not engage, so stuck 4wd problems shouldnt be relevant, I think...

I tried doin a search but didn't come up with a whole lot of helpful info. Just looking for a little more knowledge and ideas for when I go investigate in the morn. Thanks guys.

 

Typically, CV joints will make more noise when turning than they will traveling straight down the road just like a wheel bearing although they are very much different noises. Wheel bearings typically growl.

Also, it could be the u-joint or the CV joint in the front driveshaft. The u-joint is at the front axle connection and the CV joint is back at the transfer case.

As far as how to tell if a CV joint is bad... Not that there aren't signs, but visually... If the boot is leaking, the CV joint won't last too long. If you see green grease all over the place under there, the boot is leaking.

 

I looked under there yesterday and didnt see any greese anywhere. Maybe it isnt the cv then. Im kinda at a loss then. Im just about to get bundled up and start diggin in. Thanks Kyle.

 

'diggin in' is pretty much what it is going to take. The diagnosis of noises gets kind of difficult over the internet. Grab a hold of the front driveshaft and feel for play. You can do the same for the CV shafts, but there will be some in/out play in them. There shouldn't be off axis (side to side or up/down) play in any of the shafts.

 

Well the best I can tell is that is coming from the u-joint going into the front differential. But there doesnt seem to be any play in it. Also there doesnt appear to be a way to grease it. There is no caps holding it onto the front drive shaft. I dont know how to get it off of the drive shaft.

This little truck is really starting to annoy me. I also put a new transfer case control module in today at the tune of $480. I think all that did was shut off the service awd light. I drove around a little and cant get the front tires to spin and notice absolutely no difference in traction. I would just dump it off at a repair shop but I dont have a lot of money and really dont want to keep dumping more into this thing.

 

I know Im jacking my own thread but what would cause a brand new transfer case control module to fail? Yesterday the servvice awd light was off and today when I started the truck, it came on.

 

What's to say the TCCM has failed? There could be another issue with the system that has set a code.

 

The dealer said that is what they would start with goin off of their scanner. The scanner was unable to communicate with the TCCM. 2nd, my boss's snap on scan tool said the same thing. I dont know for sure if the service awd light is on because of the TCCM yet, but thats my fear. If the encoder motor is bad, will that take out the TCCM? I had a blown fuse under the hood as well that I replaced.

 

A failed encoder motor should not cause the TCCM to fail as well. That doesn't mean that both couldn't be bad at the same time though.