I'm not sure if steering yoke is the right name for it but it's the part that the upper and lower ball joints and the outer tie rod end attach. I was in the process of replacing my front end components (ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, ect.). The LH or drivers side was a dream to work on but the RH side is a nightmare. Trying to remove the caliper the heads of the bolts snapped off. Then when I was trying to remove the center hub nut, my breaker bar snapped. It looks like I'm going to have to replace the whole assy from the propeller shaft out. Any help?

 

The part your talking about is called the knuckle.should be pretty easy to fund one in a junkyard

 

When you say the caliper bolts snapped... Are you referring to the guide pins that attach the caliper to the bracket? If so, you can remove the caliper and the bracket as an assembly by removing the two bracket to knuckle, (yoke) bolts. New guide pins come with a remanufactured caliper and bracket assembly. If the bolts that attach the bracket to the knuckle snapped, you might have a problem removing them from the knuckle. If you can't get them out, you'll need to replace the knuckle.

As for the axle nut: stick a screwdriver in a brake rotor vent hole and allow it to bind against the caliper bracket so it will hold the axle while you loosen/remove the axle nut. Gotta use at least 1/2" drive with a 36mm socket, and a nice 4' piece of pipe to break it loose, (good quality breaker bar is necessary ). Obviously need to do this before removing the caliper Impact tools are not recommended as they can damage the CV joint from the "hammering effect".

 

On the 97, the slide bolts and the attach bolts are one in the same. As for the hub nut, I put a crowbar between the wheel studs and used a 1/2 in Craftsman breaker bar with a pipe and a 35mm hub socket. The breaker bar snapped. Fortunately being Craftsman, they have a lifetime warranty. Read about some other ideas involving welding and drilling.

 

Oops, my bad, 98+ uses the bracket, sorry. Mig weld a "booger" on the broken guide pin, then use vice grips to turn the broken piece out. The heat from the weld usually loosens up the bolt. If not, you're looking at replacing the knuckle. Should be plenty in the boneyard

The only problem with using a crow bar on the lug studs is that you risk damaging the threads. The screwdriver trick eliminates that risk.