Well here we go again with calipers. Some of you remember my brake failure 2 years ago caused by a stuck rear caliper. I had all of the parts (calipers, bracket, pads, rotors, hoses, lines) replaced at that time to prevent it from happening again. I had the pads and rotors done again in May this year since the pads were low, especially on the right side (slider pins out of grease. Caliper was fine). Well I think all of this is starting to happen again.

Lately I have been hearing the distinctive groaning sound while I am starting to move that the old caliper was making 8 months before it completely boiled the pad (and took out the entire system) and no shop was able to diagnose the noise (4 of them). Today, after driving 45 miles, I was getting out of the truck and immediately smelled burning brakes. It was not like that yesterday or the day before. I even sometimes check the brake temps (by hand and with an IR thermometer) to verify that they are stopping fine, especially when I started hearing noise and it was after I had the brakes done. I checked all the wheels and found the REAR LEFT wheel was boiling hot and smelled really bad. The other wheels were normal temp. After finishing what I had to do, I drove it back at low speed with the flashers on and stopped periodically to let them cool. The car was stopping fine, so there was no immediate issue there.

After I got to where I was going, I pulled both rear wheels off and found the pads were still in good condition and more or less equal between pads on the same wheel. The left rear was so hot that I got burned even after letting it cool for a while. I didn't even touch the rotor directly. This was just from pulling the wheel off because the wheel itself was hot. I do not even want to think about what would have happened if a fire started with the gas tank 6" away. Real poor design.

Now my big question: Since I just had the pads and rotors replaced and they are still equal and in good condition, could I just have the caliper replaced and the pins regreased? Or would I need to have the pads done all over again? This may sound crazy to ask, but I had good ceramic pads installed and I would hate to throw away good pads, especially if I had to buy a pack for two wheels if only one is the problem. Thanks

 

I would give the old pads a try, but if you are in a position to buy new pads, I would suggest that also. Reason being, pads have a specific thermal heat range that they are designed for. Surpassing that range tends to "glaze" the pad making it squeakier and at times also making it less reactive.

Also, I personally don't like ceramic pads on heavier suv/trucks. Next time you replace your brakes, I'd suggest the semi-metallic brake pads from BP.

 

Honestly I didn't read all of that. But a couple things that come to mind for a recurring issue are brake fluid. Has it been flushed/completely bled out & with the proper procedure? How often do you service/maintain your brakes? Grease the pins, take it all apart & blow out the dust etc once a year, inspect things.
Words/phrases that caught my attention were the rear brake hot, smelling... bleed the brakes.
Start at the PS rear, DS rear, PS front & then DS front. Make sure all vacuum lines aren't cracked & hooked up properly. $15 to bleed the brakes & replace a few lines, if need be. Just a cheap way to take care of a couple issues that can wreak havoc.

 

Fluid has been flushed or bled at least once every year or two. More so in the past two years. Pins are checked and greased as needed, but since I had a problem with the other rear wheel which prompted the brake pad replacement (pins stuck, wore out pad). I will have the shop bleed the brakes on Monday. For now, I am only driving it in town at low speed and the temperatures have been low on that wheel, so there is no immediate danger.

 

Caliper/bracket replaced today. Night and day difference with temperature. Both rear wheels are cool even after multiple 65mph stops (fronts are hot if I put my hands close, but normal temp). He gravity bled it (opened the bleeder and let fluid pour out. Then topped off M/C), but the pedal feels different, so rebleeding might be needed but it stops great. I guess case closed.

 

I just had this same issue on my 1998 Chevrolet Blazer SLT. I had bad pins. Re-greased pins and new pads. I attempted to put high temp brake fluid in but was unable to get bleeders to brake loose. I spoke to a mechanic that I know that works on Impala Yellow Cabs and stated that they have changed all the cabs over to high temp brake fluid and this has made a major difference in the same brake system eating brakes.

I have learned that this is a continuing major problem on these vehicles. Looks like I will be re-greasing every 6 months.

 

Twice a year I always inspect my brakes & clean, lube the pins. Sometimes more if I have the tire off & I'm just there.
As for the high temp fluid I just use the regular brake fluid. Sounds like the calipers are hanging up. Have the flexible brake lines been changed lately? You may have a collapsed brake line or one that's intermittent or junk in the line.

 

Lines were replaced 2 years ago. It was the caliper. Had it replaced along with the bracket and problem solved.