I recently picked up some ZR2 torsion bars and installed them. I turned the bolts the exact same amount of turns as when they were taken off. How would one properly measure the chassis height? I plan to add an inch in the front so I need to make sure the chassis height is within spec. Here's a picture feel free to draw on it to show me where to measure!
<1996 Blazer 4WD>

 

Here's my scans of the procedure from my 99 service manual. I don't see any distinction mentioned between non-ZR2 vs ZR2 models.

 

Oh, and with any sort of front lift, keep an eye on the inner CV boot. They slipped off on mine. I was able to put a hose clamp on the passenger side but had to replace the boot with a newer (and better) neoprene one on the driver's side.

 

Ah thank you Christine! I'm rocking the stock CV Axles with almost 250,000 miles so I'm assuming that they will probably break. Based on the picture below do you reckon I can drive to a nearby flat area with no problems? Is the CV Axle at a bad angle? I can turn the bars down and then drive to the flat area.

 

It is not always easy to determine angles from pictures. That said, it sure looks to me that you are near the maximum angle for the inner CV joint.

The issue is that if you go over a bump so that the body goes up with the wheel staying down, then the ball-joints and CV joints could get to the end of their travel. This could cause some damage when the joints bind. I think the CV joints themselves are pretty durable if they stay filled with grease and are not driven at their maximum angle.

For driving on the level, and staying in town at city-speeds, you likely will be fine for now. But you know, there is always the unexpected that could happen.

I'd be sure to get your height set soon and keep checking the boots; especially the inner ones. As soon as you see extra grease being flung around, you know the boot has slipped off.

Fortunately, the replacement boots are not that hard to install and are much more flexible. If there is no play in the CV joints, then you might as well rebuild them. My one experience with and aftermarket CV axle was that I could not get it in! This is what prompted me to look at replacing the boot. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I was able to do it because I knew the boot had just recently slipped off and the grease was not contaminated.

 

I plan to add new boots as you said if they separate. However, when you install new CV Axles does the fluid come out of where they go in? If so where do you even fill that?

 

If the truck is level, then the most gear oil that might come out is a few drops to small dribble. The drain and fill holes on on the large centeral part of the housing. I think the fill hole is accessible from below but on the passenger side. The drain is on the bottom but I can't think of exactly where but it should be pretty easy to find. A Haynes or Chilton repair manual would have pictures if you can't find this info from a Google search. I find that a pump useful for refilling it.

As long as you only drive on pavement and it does rain, you can risk the boots slipping off and the joint not getting ruined by the grease being contaminated. But you will need to check it everyday. Where I live, I will take my truck on dirt roads and eventually it will rain and snow starting in the fall. I'd not want to have an open boot under those conditions. Be sure to check it every day or so until you replace them

 

ight will do! It's pretty much a pavement princess. I'm going to measure the chassis height and get it to 4.8 then add an inch or try to get 1.5. I heard that was the general consensus to not go any higher because it'll wear parts out super fast.

 

Hey christine. I've started to try to get it to specs but it seems hard to measure because the wheel is in the way. Am I doing this correctly?

 

Yep, I think you are measuring the right points.

For the inner measurement, I think I used two bits of wood that I could slide past each other; kind of like a lower part of an "L" and the vertical part of an "L" used with the horizontal part on the top. I then would slide up the part with the horizontal leg against the vertical part until the top edge of the horizontal part touched the underside of the steering knuckle. I then either marked the pieces of wood with a pencil or added a clamp that would allow me to take the measurement.

You could also make a "go-no-go" gauge by cutting out a piece of plywood in the shape of an "L" that you invert and use to check the height. The height from the bottom to the top of the "L" would be the height you want. If everything was square, then you should be fine.

This later solution is what I should of done but I instead winged with some scrap pieces of wood I had around.