It was a good post full of usefull information that other computer nerds might need to know about.

Glad I was able to help you all out. Also glad you all understood it enough that you felt comfortable to tackle this one on your own.

Yes a slight wobble in the 3-9 test is normal. It's mostly due to slop/play in the steering linkage. If it gets too excessive you need someone to look at each ball joint, each tierod, and the pitman/idler arms holding the steering linkage in place. Clues that it is getting too lose ywould be drifting around on the highway, constantly turning the wheel from side to side to keep going in a straight line, popping noise in turns. If you expierience any of those, get it checked out.

 

Well I went out to start the replacement and found that the hub turns while trying to get the 36mm nut off. How do you keep it from turning? I read somewhere that you can put it in 4x4 - tried that and it still turns... Could I put the wheel back on and let it rest slightly to keep it from turning while I bust the BMF 36mm nut loose or would that be inadvisable?

EDIT - OK - I figured it out - I had to keep the motor running, put it in 4x4, then in park and then bust the 36mm BMF nut loose - then shut the engine off. You may want to add that important tidbit of info to the how-to for 4x4 newbies like me
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You could do this numerous different ways. #1 on my list would be a pry bar through the lugs with the lug nuts installed. Just use a flat pry bar and maybe rotate the steering so you can better hold both.

*EDIT* - Ok so... #1 really is use an air impact on it, but not everyone has a compressor in their garage...

 

Yes you could leave teh truck on the ground and take that nut off, then jack it up.

One of those things you forget when you have air tools.


Putting it in 4x4 is also a good idea. I won't have thought of that. [sm=goodidea.gif]

 

I had my wife hold the brakes down while I loosened it, since I had it in the air already.

 

Thanks for the great 'How To' Hanr3. I am about to embark on this jobwith my 2000 LT 4x4. I just turned 49,000 and noticed the front end getting noisey. Brakes didn'tquiet it down,so I figure the bearings must be getting ready to go. Thanks to your article I have ref pics I can look at. Very nice!
I found a place in NY (MAC Auto Parts)that sellsthe bearingsfor $89 eawith a 'lifetime warranty'. Wonder how they would work out? Anyonehear of or have dealings with this company?
Here's a link:
http://www.macautoparts.net/ProductInfo.aspx?id=1758968

Thanks again
ChevyDave
RI
2000 Blazer LT 4X4

 

I've never seen a hub assembly with a lifetime warranty. It says "asian manufacturer" -- hmmm good luck with that. You may have isssues trying to redeem that warranty. I went with the Timken bearings from Autozone. They're twice the price but I figure the quality is worth it in the long run as I plan on keeping my Blazer quite a while...
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I'm doing a lot better than I thought I would with this job, PB Blaster and a breaker bar have been my best friends. I'm at the point where both assemblies are unbolted and loose, just not coming off the spline. I've soaked the crap out of the CV axle where it meets the hub on the outside, squirted some behind the hub, too. Any tricks on how to get the hub assembly off the spline? I've been gently prying off the steering knuckle but don't want to cause any damage to the knuckle itself.

Just keep soaking and prying?

EDIT: Ah, I see in the 'Related Threads' that a puller may be necessary. Didn't see that in Hanr3's How-To. Could I have caused any damage trying to pull on the CV axle?

2nd EDIT: What size puller should I get? Is it a universal thing or do I need a specific size?

3rd EDIT: Well the passenger's side came out easily. It's the driver's side that's giving me grief. Guess that was the worse of the two, eh?

 

I used the 5/10 ton 3-jaw puller tool from autozone (what ever the largest one is, the other smaller 2-ton one or whatever doesnt have enough strength). Just keep at it and eventually it will come, this is the part of the job that is time consuming, since it is sort of a time thing, rather than actual force on it (since you don't want to break anything).

I have to replace the hub bearing on the drivers side now since i screwed it up and sort of pulled it apart when I was taking stuff apart for the ball joints, so eventually i will get to fixing it.

 

Well the hours listed for my local Advance says 8 on Sunday, but looks like they clsoe at 7. Gonna huff it tomorrow to be there by 7:30AM and get what I need (the Wife's Grand Am sprung another leak in a return line again on the way to the Auto Show, don't want to put another $200 in it if I don't have to). Thanks for the info Lenny!