No Problem. Good luck and hope you get it fixed soon. I know when I did the balljoints on my truck, we went at a leisurely pace and the blazer was out of commision for 4 days, since timings of when things broke and when the store was open, plus it was cold outside at the time.

 

That quote is from this post that came up under a search for 'hub assembly'. I got the gear puller and it came out quite easily. Buttoned everything back up, did everything recommended in this How-To. Sprayed rotors and pads down with brake parts cleaner. Put some grease on the O-ring. Put anti-sieze on the bearing bolts, the lugs themselves, and the CV axle spline. Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. VOILA! The whub-whub-whub sound is gone...for the most part. The old ones were starting to make noise even going straight, and were noticably louder in turns no matter the speed, but loudest and the highway speeds. The new ones don't make any noise at all straight, no noises at highway speed turns (around bends) but when I went to slow down to 15mph to turn onto a side road I could hear the all familiar sound.

Here's where the quote comes in. Since it only happened under braking at low speeds (no sound at highway speed braking), is it as simple as replacing rotors and pads? Would the rear bearings have anything to do with it?

EDIT: Added pics of the old bearings.


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[IMG]local://upfiles/5485/FFBADBCA9C01415B8C4FE7200B60FE82.jpg[/IMG]

 

ok so i wish I had came to this section BEFORE yesterday. The noises started early yesterday and i knew what they meant, but I finished my errands first, then took it to my brother-in-law's to have him give a 2nd opnion on the driver side. he shook it and said yep. We looked at it in the Hayne's manual, and since it mentioned requiring pullers, which he didn't have, we decided to get it to Les Schwab real quick. it broke on the way and I3 wheeled into their parking lot. it's going to be $401 after tax for JUST the driver side, and now I see I could have done both sides with high quality parts, and it would have only taken a few hours. I am confused as to this thread I can't figure out, is an actualy puller required, or is there "other" ways to DIY with prybars and such? now I need to figure out if the passenger side needs to be done soon or if it will be ok for my cross state 3 day weekend dirve this weekend... 99blazer 4x4x4 ls. 82xxx miles.

 

are there torque specs for the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing asm on and the nut that holds on the cv shaft?

 

I wish I would have come across this post three days ago. I just got my ride out of the shop for this very thing. I could have saved some money. Oh well, I did save time just dropping it at the shop. I was busythis week.

 

Not sure of the three bolts that hold the assembly on but the CV axle nut is 103 ft/lbs. Chevy Lover had torque specs posted for nearly everything imaginable a little while ago, you could always run a search or PM if you can't find what you're looking for.

 

Hub/Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts - 77 ftlbs (105Nm)
Wheel Hub Bolts - 103 ftlbs (140Nm)

 

Found the Timken's on rockauto.com for 103.79 but i don't see a sensor do you think it still comes with the abs sensor? Same part number. Great post going to do this next check.

 

Any difference on 2WD models vs the 4WD that's illustrated?

 

Probably internal differences in the bearing load capacity as well as the absence of the spline internal to the hub bore that is required for the 4wd front CV shafts.