But have you tried ANYTHING from those posts or did you just read and dismiss when you did not see a "Its fixed" post? If you did try somethings, what have you checked and what was the outcome? The only thing that we can do is tell you what to check and I find it a waste of time to keep stating the same things over and over again.

At some point it would be nice to actually fully define the checks that must be performed on the 4wd system and have them in one place for everyone to reference. I do not have an s-series anymore to snap pictures of, but we should get some pictures of the front axle where the actuator cable enters, the actuator under the battery tray, switch on the transfer case, electronic switch on the firewall (auto4wd models only), the encoder motor, TCCM, dash switch, and then run down through all of the functional checks on the parts that a DIY'er can do.

Right now, things are scattered through many posts. Often a simple search does not yield the answer that you are looking for. Frustration sets in and then things go down hill. The best advice I can give in regards to searching for things is to run an initial search and read through some of the threads returned. I would not start off by only reading, looking for a solution to your problem, but also paying attention to the terminology used. You may key in on some other phrases or terms that others use that can refine your search to yield better results. Also, if you know of certain people that look like they know their way around these trucks, you can further refine your search, keying in on their responses.

In the end we are all just trying to help!

 

____Post deleted____ (i was being an idiot)

 

Thanks. I can read, but that slipped through. With the hundreds of people that I attempt to help on a daily basis here, things do get missed. In my defense on that particular thread, I did not re-read his first post after his edit. I only read it on the day that he posted it. What I have recorded in my email does not state anything about searching. My bad. I am sure if you look hard enough, you will find even more mistakes I have made in the past. Be my guest!

Here, in this thread, I guess my questions do not deserve answers. Good luck with your problem!

 

i think i have found the problem i started by checking the axle engagement canister under the battery. everything seemed okay. next i unpluged the vacuum lines from the switch on the transfer case. then i started up the truck and plugged up the line that was pulling a vaccuum so i didnt have a leak and took it for a test drive. gave the truck some juice, got it up to about 85 and no noise!!!! i have a feeling that when i was accelerating hard the loss of vac. pressure was causing the front diff to engage due to a faulty vac switch. ill replace it with in the next few days but for now im leaving the lines disconnected to make sure that was the problem

 

OK, I think this is the problem that I am having with my blazer. I think tomorrow I am going to check things out.

 

WOT (wide open throttle) actually reduces intake vacuum. Since the actuator works off of vacuum, it would not cause it to pull on the engagement mechanism in the front diff.

But your results do point at a possible defective vacuum switch on the transfer case. If it is leaking, it will cause the actuator to partially engage. To test this, you can disconnect the vacuum line at the actuator and start the motor. With the transfer case in 2HI, there should be no vacuum to the actuator.

 

wheel baring grab each side of one of your front tires and shake it if it moves side to side its a wheel baring. sometimes they dont shake but there still bad. if you turn left or right does the noise get louder or go away. if it gets louder it should be the other side wheel.

lol id hope u would have fixed this by now as i notice its a old post