Hello all
I want to do a suspension lift on my 2001 blazer. I have heard of the rc suspension lifts and I like the kits... The 6 inch seems excessive however, I feel like it's too high, makes the car look kinda ugly and would also make it easier to roll over. I don't like body lifts but a 4 inch lift would be so perfect but I can't really find a good kit for it that's not overpriced.

So far my plan is to do a 2.5 lift and get hub wheel spacers for the front.
The biggest issue is what wheels/tires to put on them in terms of size because the stock ones would look too small and I don't want something too big that will rub.
Any recommendations?
During the lifting process I also want to change the following:
Lower ball joints
Lower control arm bushings
All tie rods
Idler and pitman arms
Is there anything else that would be a good idea to change during the lifting process? Wheel hub assembly maybe?

 

Your list of parts should also include upper ball joints, and possibly upper control arm bushings. Moog parts will last the longest, but be aware that with a suspension lift, you will be replacing these parts often. A body lift would avoid the ongoing expense of a suspension lift.

 

I think the upper control is part of the kit.
Also about the moog? Are they as good lately?
I changed my upper arm bushings with moog last year(7 k miles ago) and I am starting to see little cracks appear.
On the other side I have never had problems with AC Delco suspension. They felt more reliable even tho a bit more expensive I think it will be worth it? Unless there are certain AC Delco suspension parts that aren't good

 

As for cost, OEM vs Moog, they are comparable. As for quality and warranty, there is no comparison... Moog is far better.


With a stock suspension, OEM ball joints, idler & pitman arms are typically good for ~36K miles. Moog will easily double that, and in some cases triple. Depending on how far front chassis ride height is out of spec, you can expect about one third the mileage, or less, from each brand. Suspension and steering linkage parts were designed to operate within a certain range of motion. If front chassis ride height is out of spec, you're asking the parts to operate beyond the limits they were designed for.

 

Oh in that case I will definitely go for moog.
When you mentioned mileage what did u mean exactly? I thought u meant to say after the lift my mpg will drop to one third but that sounds unrealistic to me

And I understand which is why I wanna change them so atleast they are brand new.

 

You might want to look into longer or taller lower ball joints. They will counteract some of the design flaws inherent in raising your Blazer and minimize some of the tendancy to roll over. The only caveat is they are insanely expensive. My opinion; they are worth it.

 

Certain steering & suspension parts will wear out, and or unexpectedly break, considerably faster if/when front chassis ride height is out of spec.

 

Thanks for the clarification. I am really ignorant of the difference between the 6 inch and the 2.5 lift. So far from my understanding the 6 inch should give higher stress to the suspension and make things worse in terms of comfort/ride quality and the frequency on when ud have to change the parts. Is a suspension lift in general worth it? Anyone who has regretted it?

 

The lift comes with upper control arms and balljoints already installed, so there's no point in replacing them yet. And they're not factory replacement parts, I believe the ball joints are from a fullsize but I don't know which one. You would have to figure out what parts are used before you could swap them out.


The 6" lift puts less stress on steering and suspension components.


The 6" lifts use brackets to drop all the suspension mounting points to keep everything in factory operating range or very close to it.


The 2.5" lift uses the stock mounting points for the control arms but drops the diff a bit. So CV angles are worse than stock but better than just a TB crank. Upper ball joints are at an ok angle because the arms account for the lift. Lower ball joints and tie rod ends are what are affected the most by the 2.5" lift.

 

Any suspension modification that causes front chassis ride height to go out of specs will cause problems. As you go up, so do the problems, along with the maintenance costs. Ride quality, handling characteristics, and safety will all be affected. You're trying to re-engineer the vehicle to do something it was not designed to do. Another option would be a body lift, and leave the suspension alone. A body lift affects handling, but it does not affect chassis ride height. Or, find the tires & wheels that you like, and put the proper size truck on them

Is a suspension lift worth it? Only you can decide that. I'm just giving you some facts to help you make your decision. Several companies make the kits, because people buy them. Several companies make bikini's for the fat lady at the opera too, does that mean she should wear one?