Passenger Front lower control arm
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 112

I have a 96 Blazer 4x4.
The Passenger Front lower control arm is bent.
Whats the best method to replace it?.
I know the lower ball joint needs to be disconnected from the knuckle, But that big bar that goes through the control arm (torsion bar??)
also what the method of removing the old bushing in the arm??
And I know to disconnect the sway bar
Thanks in advance.
This will be a project. I have to replace all the following parts.
All ball joints
Pittman Arm
Idler Arm
Passenger side lower control arm
May just put new spring in at this point as well..
The Passenger Front lower control arm is bent.
Whats the best method to replace it?.
I know the lower ball joint needs to be disconnected from the knuckle, But that big bar that goes through the control arm (torsion bar??)
also what the method of removing the old bushing in the arm??
And I know to disconnect the sway bar

Thanks in advance.
This will be a project. I have to replace all the following parts.
All ball joints
Pittman Arm
Idler Arm
Passenger side lower control arm
May just put new spring in at this point as well..
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 112

OK If can get the bolts out of the Lower control arm, then the Torsion bar in the control arm, how do I get that out??
I will just replace the control arm w/a new one, and not muck with the bushings.
PS if there a trick to resembling this new lower control arm with the torsion bar for adjustment?
I will just replace the control arm w/a new one, and not muck with the bushings.
PS if there a trick to resembling this new lower control arm with the torsion bar for adjustment?
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 112

OK, after studying it tonight, I have no idea how to get the T bar out of the lower control arm. P Lease advise.
#4
You need to remove the tbar before removing the LCA. I'm fairly certain there is a write up on here. You will need a special tool to remove the tbar, though some have made their own tool. I'd try to find you a link but I'm on my way out the door at the moment.
#5
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Posts: 112

This may just be a pain in the [email protected]@ to do..
I also wanted to change the ball joint on the Drivers side and replace the spring, does that Tbar cause problems there to!..
This would have been simpler w/o 4 wheel drive
I also wanted to change the ball joint on the Drivers side and replace the spring, does that Tbar cause problems there to!..
This would have been simpler w/o 4 wheel drive
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Posts: 141

Just like about everything else, nothing comes easy on these s-10's. To replace the LCA you'll need what is called a torsion bar unloader tool (looks like a beefed up c-clamp) Not so easy to come across unless you wanna fork out $100-$200, or perhaps you know someone who works in an alignment/suspension shop that will lend ya one. I'll give ya a tip... since you're gonna be replacing the control arm you will more than likely need to press new bushings in. Go to a parts store that has a rent-a-tool program (autozone comes to mind) and ask for a ball joint press kit (google it). The kit is fairly universal and comes with a variety of receiver cups and press adapters along with the a "beefed up c-clamp". Sound familiar? Use the c-clamp to unload your torsion bars (cautiously) and use the c-clamp with the correct combination of receiver cups and press adapters to press out/in the old/new bushings.
When you say you need to replace the spring are you talking about the torsion bar or are you mistaking the shock absorber for the spring (torsion bar). The torsion bars rarely need replacing unless they are severely bent or have been subjected to extreme use. You're more likely to have problems with the torsion bar cross member mounts. The ball joints are pretty straight forward unless they have never been replaced, if so than you'll need an air chisel or cutting torch to remove the rivets that hold the factory ball joints in place. Shock absorbers can be replaced without having to unload torsion bars. Hope you can use some of this info and diy instead of taking you're truck to a shop. Just ask if you need any additional help.
When you say you need to replace the spring are you talking about the torsion bar or are you mistaking the shock absorber for the spring (torsion bar). The torsion bars rarely need replacing unless they are severely bent or have been subjected to extreme use. You're more likely to have problems with the torsion bar cross member mounts. The ball joints are pretty straight forward unless they have never been replaced, if so than you'll need an air chisel or cutting torch to remove the rivets that hold the factory ball joints in place. Shock absorbers can be replaced without having to unload torsion bars. Hope you can use some of this info and diy instead of taking you're truck to a shop. Just ask if you need any additional help.
#7
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 112

Just like about everything else, nothing comes easy on these s-10's. To replace the LCA you'll need what is called a torsion bar unloader tool (looks like a beefed up c-clamp) Not so easy to come across unless you wanna fork out $100-$200, or perhaps you know someone who works in an alignment/suspension shop that will lend ya one. I'll give ya a tip... since you're gonna be replacing the control arm you will more than likely need to press new bushings in. Go to a parts store that has a rent-a-tool program (autozone comes to mind) and ask for a ball joint press kit (google it). The kit is fairly universal and comes with a variety of receiver cups and press adapters along with the a "beefed up c-clamp". Sound familiar? Use the c-clamp to unload your torsion bars (cautiously) and use the c-clamp with the correct combination of receiver cups and press adapters to press out/in the old/new bushings.
When you say you need to replace the spring are you talking about the torsion bar or are you mistaking the shock absorber for the spring (torsion bar). The torsion bars rarely need replacing unless they are severely bent or have been subjected to extreme use. You're more likely to have problems with the torsion bar cross member mounts. The ball joints are pretty straight forward unless they have never been replaced, if so than you'll need an air chisel or cutting torch to remove the rivets that hold the factory ball joints in place. Shock absorbers can be replaced without having to unload torsion bars. Hope you can use some of this info and diy instead of taking you're truck to a shop. Just ask if you need any additional help.
When you say you need to replace the spring are you talking about the torsion bar or are you mistaking the shock absorber for the spring (torsion bar). The torsion bars rarely need replacing unless they are severely bent or have been subjected to extreme use. You're more likely to have problems with the torsion bar cross member mounts. The ball joints are pretty straight forward unless they have never been replaced, if so than you'll need an air chisel or cutting torch to remove the rivets that hold the factory ball joints in place. Shock absorbers can be replaced without having to unload torsion bars. Hope you can use some of this info and diy instead of taking you're truck to a shop. Just ask if you need any additional help.
After looking at is I see there are no springs in the front.
Autozone has no clue of ANY tbar tools, I see where the tbar connect to the LCA, and I dont see how to seperate the trwo... And Autozone has no clue either

As for the Ball joints, I see there in with Bolts (so there not OEM) I can change all that stuff with n o prob, I want to start tomorrow morning, BUT I need to know how to seperate the LCA for the tbar..
On the Drivers side the Control Arms are, OK, But need to replace Pitmann arm,and Ball joints along with the hub... SO do I still need to unload the tbar (I believe I do
))????I have Alldata and see this unloader tool.. its j22517-02
Last edited by Beckyj636; 07-11-2010 at 11:22 AM.
#8
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The t-bars don't need unloading to replace these parts.
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 112

Can I simply back off the adjusting screw for the tbar? Looking at the Alldata Diagram it looks like the tool just presses against the key,
If the adjusting bolt is NOT removed just backed of, can this release enough tension to remove the LCA safely?
I found one on ebay for 70 bucks used, its the actual j-22517-02 part number too.
If the adjusting bolt is NOT removed just backed of, can this release enough tension to remove the LCA safely?
I found one on ebay for 70 bucks used, its the actual j-22517-02 part number too.
Last edited by Beckyj636; 07-12-2010 at 11:37 PM.
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Posts: 141

The key keeps a certain amount of preload on the t-bar, it must be removed to relieve all tension. If you look just to the outside of either key/adjusting bolt you will see a small depression. The depression is where you fit the unloader tool screw end. The part with the depression in it is commonly referred to as "the pork chop", mainly because that is exactly what it resembles.
If you can get you're hands on the appropriate tool, more power to ya!!
If you can get you're hands on the appropriate tool, more power to ya!!






