Pitman arm replacement advice (99 Blazer, 4wd)
#1
Pitman arm replacement advice (99 Blazer, 4wd)
Hi all,
So, I've finally come to needing to replace my pitman arm. I've hoped to avoid this but I can see some play in where it attaches to the center-link. The idler arm will also get replaced while I'm at it. (I'll be taking this opportunity to install my 1-ton idler arm upgrade.)
I've found a few threads that say that the pitman arm can be replaced without taking the steering gear out. To do so, you remove the mounting bolts for the steering gear and lay the gear body over then you can get to the nut for the pitman arm with an air wrench (which I do have).
Questions:
So, I've finally come to needing to replace my pitman arm. I've hoped to avoid this but I can see some play in where it attaches to the center-link. The idler arm will also get replaced while I'm at it. (I'll be taking this opportunity to install my 1-ton idler arm upgrade.)
I've found a few threads that say that the pitman arm can be replaced without taking the steering gear out. To do so, you remove the mounting bolts for the steering gear and lay the gear body over then you can get to the nut for the pitman arm with an air wrench (which I do have).
Questions:
- Does this procedure sound right? (I don't live where a lot of salt is used so I'm hoping removal of the nut won't be too bad.)
- Any other advice to give?
- Any brands of pitman arms to avoid? (I'm thinking that I'll with AC-Delco, Moog or Proforged.)
Last edited by christine_208; 05-01-2022 at 07:24 PM.
#2
From what I understand, this is correct. Taking the the 3 mounting bolts loose from the gram mount location, removing 2 while leaving one loose, (bottom most towards the front if memory serves), so you can turn your steering wheel once loose to where you have better access to the pitman arm. This method is very possible, and if everything is situated right, and air ratchet, a 33MM Socket, an 11/16 Socket, and a pitman arm puller, (Where the 11/16ths comes in), and it should pop right out no muss no fuss. As far as brand wise, I haven’t heard any horror stories, but have heard that when in doubt, Moog replacements are 9x’s out of 10 the best choice to go with.
inhave to do the same repair, matter of fact, and came across this YouTube vid of a guy doing exactly what we’re discussing. I’ll link it , ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AercgHZuxXc ) , if I can find it again.
Hope this helps & GL..!
inhave to do the same repair, matter of fact, and came across this YouTube vid of a guy doing exactly what we’re discussing. I’ll link it , ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AercgHZuxXc ) , if I can find it again.
Hope this helps & GL..!
#3
From what I understand, this is correct. Taking the the 3 mounting bolts loose from the gram mount location, removing 2 while leaving one loose, (bottom most towards the front if memory serves), so you can turn your steering wheel once loose to where you have better access to the pitman arm. This method is very possible, and if everything is situated right, and air ratchet, a 33MM Socket, an 11/16 Socket, and a pitman arm puller, (Where the 11/16ths comes in), and it should pop right out no muss no fuss. As far as brand wise, I haven’t heard any horror stories, but have heard that when in doubt, Moog replacements are 9x’s out of 10 the best choice to go with.
inhave to do the same repair, matter of fact, and came across this YouTube vid of a guy doing exactly what we’re discussing. I’ll link it , ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AercgHZuxXc ) , if I can find it again.
Hope this helps & GL..!
inhave to do the same repair, matter of fact, and came across this YouTube vid of a guy doing exactly what we’re discussing. I’ll link it , ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AercgHZuxXc ) , if I can find it again.
Hope this helps & GL..!
Thanks! I'm glad someone found this and might find it useful.
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