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Pitman and Idler Arm Brands, Which to Choose?

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  #11  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:38 AM
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Thanks again for the input! I got the parts and tools yesterday and I asked Autozone for a "puller to remove the steering knuckle from the hub assembly" and doing a google image search, it looks exactly like a Pitman Arm puller, though I don't know if the spacing will work for the GM pitman arm spec. I'll have to wait and find out I guess. Either way, I'm not using one of those adjustable-in-1000 ways gear pulling tools.

Old Skool, do you agree with jsmz that the easiest way to access the pitman arm is to take the steering box out? I was hoping to avoid having to pull everything apart, but I'll have to do what I have to do...

Thanks again.
 
  #12  
Old 05-06-2010, 08:55 PM
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Just to be clear, I got the parts from Napa, not Autozone! You can tell they're made well.
 
  #13  
Old 05-06-2010, 11:27 PM
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mark. Really, the only way to remove the pitman arm is to remove the entire steering box with the arm attached. The box is only held in 3 bolts so its pretty simple to remove it. make sure to plug the fluid lines when you remove the box. I had to put my steering box in a vice, and have a helper hold a bar between the pitman arm and box just to keep it from spinning as i loosened the pitman arm nut with a large wrench and cheater bar.

I used a larger heavy duty adjustable 2 jaw puller. I would have used a 3 jaw puller if i had one; it would have helped me get a straighter pull on the arm. I was really suprised by how much force it took to break the arm loose. After torquing the bolt on the puller for a few minutes without even so much as a budge, we decided to tap on it with a hammer...and still nothing. With the puller still torqued, we walked away from it for a second. As soon as we turned around, we heard a pop and a crash. It broke loose on its own and the puller flew up in the air. haha.

Anyways, if I had to do it over again, I wouldnt. The pitman arm really isn't a part that can wear out. Unless you think it's bent or something, I would just avoid the cost and hassle of replacing it. The only reason I did it was because I replaced my entire steering setup.

But if you do remove the steering box, you will have to bleed the steering system after you reattach the box and top off the fluid that will have been lost. This can be done by starting your blazer and rotating the wheel back and forth (you don't want to go want to go full crank either way, just a turn or so in each direction). Let it warm up for a few minutes and the turn it off. Check the fluid and add as required.

ps: The steering box mounts to the frame rail. there are three bolts that hold it there, and the heads are on the other side of frame behind the tire in triangle pattern. You can miss them.
 

Last edited by Taymacjack; 05-06-2010 at 11:33 PM. Reason: add info
  #14  
Old 05-07-2010, 05:40 AM
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Thanks for the info. Could I just slide the steering box forward and try to separate the arms without disconnecting the lines?
 
  #15  
Old 05-07-2010, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark_D View Post
Thanks for the info. Could I just slide the steering box forward and try to separate the arms without disconnecting the lines?
That's a negative... I did my whole steering setup not too long ago. The lines get caught up on the frame rails in front of the steering box. I tried to slide it back, and it's not enough to get the pitman puller on there. Just take the box out... As said above, 3 bolts holding it in, and the lines really aren't that bad to take off... Use a proper sized wrench to loosen them so you don't risk rounding off the flare nut, and it will be fine.

I find after working on front wheel drive cars alot, the jimmy is a DREAM to work on! LOL So much room and everything seems to be easy access!
 
  #16  
Old 05-07-2010, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_D View Post
Thanks for the info. Could I just slide the steering box forward and try to separate the arms without disconnecting the lines?
......
 
  #17  
Old 05-09-2010, 06:41 PM
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Thanks for the help...I should be doing this on Tuesday after work.

Taymacjack, I didn't mean to ask something that you'd already said...I must not have seen your post at the time.

I'll let you know know how it goes later this week.
 
  #18  
Old 05-10-2010, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_D View Post
Old Skool, do you agree with jsmz that the easiest way to access the pitman arm is to take the steering box out? I was hoping to avoid having to pull everything apart, but I'll have to do what I have to do...

Thanks again.
sorry Mark, been a little busy. Taymacjack, midnightmekanik & jsmz are all correct, that's the only way to do it.

and since it's now Tuesday.............oh, wait, it's still Monday night..........so i guess you haven't had a chance to change it yet.

let us know how you made out.
 
  #19  
Old 05-12-2010, 03:59 PM
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Hey, thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the work done yesterday. Of all the tools to NOT have, I couldn't find a 1/2" socket and looking for one wasted too much daylight. By the time I gave up looking, I had to put everything back together before it got too dark.

I'm going to push things back and do it on Saturday.

And no, the 1/2" socket wasn't for the Pitman Arm, it was to remove the lower ball joint socket to replace the CV axle. There's a lot going on with the truck and I thought I could do that quickly then the Pitman, but it took too long. I'll update when I get it done on Saturday.
 
  #20  
Old 05-16-2010, 10:45 PM
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Got everything done, just need to get an alignment and I should be good to go! Turned out the idler arm was a Moog, could that have come stock or was it replaced once before?

After replacing the idler and pitman, the steering wheel is cocked 45 degrees to the right when the wheels are straight. I made sure to align the steering shaft to the steering box, and to correctly position the idler arm onto the steering box. I'm guessing things must have just been outta whack with the old components in there right? I figure they can compensate by adjusting the tie rods...
 


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