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Pop/Bang/Knock during turns

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  #11  
Old 05-07-2012, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chris015
heres a video of my broken mount. Epic LQ video ftw.

Broken torsion bar mount on 91 s10 blazer - YouTube




The mounts seperate from each other.....you have a metal plate and a chunk of rubber with a stud in it. the stud and chunk of rubber bolts to the torsion crossmember that holds the torsion bars. when you turn,or go over bumps the crossmember will flop up and down on the side that has the broken mount. Here is a few pictures on the mounts.


By chris015 at 2012-03-10

By chris015 at 2012-03-10



you simply remove the nut on top,and the 2 bolts on bottom and remove/replace. Its easier to use a floorjack on the lip of the crossmember to lift it off of the mount AFTER you remove the top nut.


edit : also to throw in, if you decide to do both, the passengers side requires the "improved" version that has 3 bolts instead of a nut and stud. you cant get the member high enough to slide the new one in due to the exhaust. the stud bumps the member since its not high enough. Moog makes the improved version. the driver side you can use any torsion mount as it has plenty of room.
So it is easy? The T-Bar doesn't have to come out? Since it seems to be only the driver side since I can feel it at my feet, could I just have that one done for now?
 
  #12  
Old 05-07-2012, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ComputerNerdBD
Chris015: How are those replaced? What is wrong with them that they make noise?

GM put out a service bulletin about this back in '06, but I dunno...the cross member they refer to would be under the back of your front seat, more or less. If the noise is at your feet, not sure it would be the torsion bar.

Anyway, if you want to investigate further, here's some pics:


Torsion bar trick how to with pics


This shows the blocks. If you do decide to take this apart, remember to measure the height (body vs. wheel) before you start backing out that bolt. Or mark the threads on the bolt so you know how far it needs to go back in.
 
  #13  
Old 05-07-2012, 05:19 PM
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^^^ the knocking cross member vibration etc runs up the torsion bar and makes it feel like its under your seat..

nerd,you dont have to remove the torsion bars. Just pop loose the 2 bolts and the nut, and raise the crossmember lip up with the jack and slide the broken piece out,new piece in. Its better to do both since if ones bad,the others on its way out.
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:16 PM
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Alright then. Since I don't have the correct tools or a garage to do all this, I called my preferred shop and they don't have this job in their computer, so they said a couple hours with a question mark. I am sending an email to a 4x4 specialty shop an hour away where they can probably do this no problem.

Thanks for the advice. You all saved me alot of headache.
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:46 PM
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all you need is a $5 set of china sockets and wrenches and some kind of jack even the crappy scissor jack that comes with most spare tires. thats it. I think it was a size 15mm wrench and 15 or 18 mm socket. And i had both of mine done in 30 minutes.
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by chris015
all you need is a $5 set of china sockets and wrenches and some kind of jack even the crappy scissor jack that comes with most spare tires. thats it. I think it was a size 15mm wrench and 15 or 18 mm socket. And i had both of mine done in 30 minutes.
Well I do have basic tools like that (15mm I have (actually I use that for the oil drain plug), 18 I need to get). But does the wheel have to be off the ground to remove the mount? I have ramps that I use for oil changes that give alot of clearance under the truck.
 
  #17  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:05 AM
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no need to remove the wheel. The mount is not up in the front behind the wheel. Its actually behind you. If you crawl under the truck,look at the rear of the transfercase. you see that crossmember thats underneath it that the torsion bars go in into? its on each end of that. you'll see 2 bolts on each end of it connected to the frame. heres a pic i found online. the crossmember is under the cat converter.

You see the lip under the words "torsion bar mount"? once you remove the nut on top of the mount,put the jack under that lip and jack it up until you have room to slide the old mounts out.
 
  #18  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by chris015
no need to remove the wheel. The mount is not up in the front behind the wheel. Its actually behind you. If you crawl under the truck,look at the rear of the transfercase. you see that crossmember thats underneath it that the torsion bars go in into? its on each end of that. you'll see 2 bolts on each end of it connected to the frame. heres a pic i found online. the crossmember is under the cat converter.

You see the lip under the words "torsion bar mount"? once you remove the nut on top of the mount,put the jack under that lip and jack it up until you have room to slide the old mounts out.
So it really is that easy? Almost seems too good to be true to be honest. Thanks alot.
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:52 PM
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Yep! that easy.

remove 2 bolts
remove 1 nut
raise lip
pull out
push new in
lower lip after you have the bolts part of the way in so the mount stays aligned
add nut,tighten bolts.
Stand there and think "dude i was gonna pay to have this done?"


Cool
 
  #20  
Old 05-08-2012, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chris015
Yep! that easy.

remove 2 bolts
remove 1 nut
raise lip
pull out
push new in
lower lip after you have the bolts part of the way in so the mount stays aligned
add nut,tighten bolts.
Stand there and think "dude i was gonna pay to have this done?"


Cool
Ok then. So the driver side one is easy, but the passenger side one is harder due to the exhaust?

What do I do if the bolts are rusted to h***? Would PB Blaster be harmful? I know that is strong stuff.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPCHASAMS_____
 

Last edited by ComputerNerdBD; 05-08-2012 at 03:08 PM.


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