I just swapped out my Rear in my '99. Here's my thoughts.. Maybe it will help someone.

Rear Axle replacement Highlights
Working alone and with the additional disassembly for inspection of the Junkyard Rear.. the Job took about 5 hours.
Before starting, Make sure you can take out the Fill Plug on the Rear going into the car. Helps to know you can fill the newly installed Rear when you are done with the job.

Disconnect Sway Bar from Rear housing (18mm nuts) and swing it back and tie it to the Rear bumper.

Pull Brake light Fuse from under Hood then push brake pedal and wedge piece of wood between front seat and Brake pedal to prevent emptying Brake Master when you have Brake lines disconnected. Pulling the fuse just keeps the Brake lights from being on for 5 hours.
Disconnet Brakelines at either Junction Block on Rear or where steel line meets the soft Junction Block hose on the Frame. Take Calipers off the Bracket and tie to axle housing so they don’t swing around. I took out the old rear and put in the Junkie Rear this way. After the Install, I took off the mounted Calipers from the Junkie Rear and used my almost new Calipers… I just knew they were working fine. It was easier to do it after the Rear was in place. Blow air through the Steel Lines on the Junkie axle to make sure they are clean and clear. Or disassemble the Lines off your old Rear if you feel more comfortable with them.

Heat is your friend when loosening the ‘U’ bolts that hold the Axle to the Leaf Springs:
Even after soaking with a Rust penetrating oil The 21mm nuts were squeaking and grunting with every small turn I was able to do with a larger Breaker bar. I was afraid they were going to twist. A little heat and they zipped right off with the Impact gun.

With the Gas tank located where it is, it was very questionable whether I could get the Rear in between the Leaf springs and the frame with the Back plate/ Dust Shield in place. Since I drained and removed the rear cover to inspect the Gears on the Junkyard Rear, it was just easier to slide the axles out, and remove the Backplate/Dust shield (15mm nuts and bolts).
The Backplates on the Junkyard Rear were in bad shape, they needed replacing anyway. After doing it this way I realized it more then likely saved me time. Disassembling the Backplate on the original Rear while it’s in the car, the E-brake Cable stay attached to the Backplate and the Car. It had to be faster then trying to remove the E-Brake cables from the original Rear. These cables aren’t really designed to come out of the Disc Brake mount. It’s possible to pinch those clips but not fun. Not to mention the struggle to loosen up the cables upstream to get them unhooked from the forward cable. All that went away when you disassemble the Backplate from the Rear and leave it there to put on the New Rear.

Lift and push Rear to Passenger side to clear the Leaf Springs first. It’s just easier not to have to fight the Gas tank. Same with reassembly; Put Passenger side of Housing up between the Springs and Frame then lift and put Drivers side up and in.
Put Diff Cover on before attaching Sway Bar. It just gives you more room.

Just under 2 quarts of GL5 gear oil fills the Diff.

 

Add a few pics, a little more detail, break out each section of the job (brakes, e-brakes, shocks, springs, u-joint, etc) and submit it to the DIY section.

I did hte same thing recently on a Dodge Ram. Real chore.

One thing to add, it is HIGHLY recommended you replace the u-bolts andytime you replace the axle. Those fail and your knee deep without a paddle, if your lucky to survive the ride.

 

Sorry, no rights to put it in DIY. and I have some pics but no means to post them

 

You can post it in the Article Submission/Discussion section. Also, you can sign up for a free photobucket account to host your images.