Edit: Its a 1998, 2wd 4dr. sorry guys!

Olay, when i first got my blazer, she'd groan and pop when the wheel was turned all the way (both ways). And the steering has a LOT of play in it. Taking a bumpy curve would have me all over the road as the front end would hop and the wheel would turn as they want. And now, with all the recent flooding here in south louisiana and having to drive through water. Its getting worse. Any little bump makes the steering wheel shimmy horribly. And im talking small crease in the road bump. My wheels are humming like i have mud tires on and i dont, its pullin even worse now. And she changes the ways to pull on her own. One minute its pullin to the right real bad, then the wheels straight and not pullin. Then back to the right. Ive came to turns with redoing the front end. For the most part anyway. And id like yalls advice on anything else to get, and anything i dont need. So far, the totals roughly almost $500. Thank you autozone employee discount! =}=}

Heres what im getting for both sides:
Idler arms
Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
Center link
Coil springs
Shocks

Theres something else. Just dont remember it.... Kay! THANKS!!

 

I would also replace the wheel bearings and no offense but I would also suggest not to use autozone ball joints, stick with raybestos proffesional grade.

 

Ive used the ball joints from orielly's, the house brand, and I have had really good luck with them. But I agree on the autozone, I hate any part from that place.

 

Is this on a 2wd or 4wd? I'm thinking since you said coild springs its 2wd but clarification will help You also said "idler arms" there is only one idler and the other is the pitman arm so make sure you get one of each. From what i have read and personal experience there is no need to replace the center link unless it is bent or the holes are egged out really bad. And like 50 said wheel bearings are a good thing to replace since you will have it all apart anyway. I also have to aggre with them on the brand choice unless you don't mind doing it again in the not so distant future. I used moog and PPM (cause I got a sweet package deal from another member) parts on mine for the lifetime warranty factor and so far I have had good luck with them. I don't have any wersonal experience with the raybestos like 50 mentioned but I have read good things about them around the forums. Hope this helps!

 

If the pull changes direction, that could be an indication of worn control arm bushings. Check all (8) uppers and lowers. Sloppy steering could be a worn gear box and or rag joint contributing to that. When you install the idler arm, make sure the center link is level with the frame before you torque the bolts. The mounting holes through the frame are elongated so you can adjust it. Sorry to burst your bubble on AZ parts, but if you're planning on keeping the vehicle, don't use them. As the Cat said, Raybestos Pro grade, or Moog.

 

I know a lot of people dont like az. No biggie. =} i was gonna get them there bc i get a discount. Cant afford any wheres else. I tried looking up for the pitman arm, and i cant find it. Guess ima hafta look on line. I dont know much about suspension work, but i was told the upper ball joints were whats on the tie rod end.... Then another person told me no. Who's right???.... So i need to check into the control arm bushings, also.

 

The ball joints are what holds the spindle to the upper and lower control arms hence the term upper and lower ball joints.
They look like this

The tie rod ends look like this

Please don't ever take advice regarding your vehicle from that person again!!

This is the pitman arm and it attaches to the steering box.

Idler arm looks like this and it attaches to the inside of the frame on the passenger side


Also you may want to look into just buying new control arms with bushings installed already cause the bushings on them have to be pressed in and out and you can get them pretty cheap already installed then its just a bolt on thing and way easier IMO.

 

Hahahaha!!!! thanks!!! For the most part, i know what everything looks like. Just cant find the pitman arm. Ima hafta check around for it. Ima check n see about new control arms. What all does buying entire control arms eliminate?? Thanks!!!!

 

They are cheap and it eliminates the need to find someone with a press to swap the bushings for you.

 

Dealer only for 2WD, it is not a "wear item". Same thing with center link on 4WD, dealer only. The pitman arm on 2WD does not have a ball stud, it's on the center link.

Edit: A good parts guy would know that