So I love my 94 Jimmy. The problem is, the idler arm is total crap. I've replaced about 4 trw brand idler arms (advance auto garbage) 5 moogs, an ac delco, and a 2 power performance idler arms.
I have stock tires and don't really wheel much so I found this 1ton idler arm from outfitterdesign ordered through synergy offroad.
This will be my experience with this project start to finish.

I ordered my 1ton idler from synergyoffroad.com. I purchased the full kit, the bracket and the idler arm assembly.
7 days after I ordered my part I contacted synergyoffroad a wtf wheres my part/tracking. 1 day later I got a response saying they forgot about my order and shipped it right out. They sent me tracking the next day (9 days to get tracking). 3 days later I got my bracket. My wife painted it and I set it on my desk excitedly awaiting my idler arm assembly. 7 days later I once again messaged synergyoffroad asking if they were sending the idler assembly separately or "forgot". 7 days later with no response I got on my paypal account and disputed the transaction. 4 hours later I got an email response from paypal saying the seller is willing to offer a partial refund with no message.

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I settled for them charging me for the bracket I received and shipping. I then messaged them saying "what exact part numbers do I need to order for the idler assembly" 5 days later they replied with a summit link to a proforged part I had to waste more of my time finding out what yr/make/model they are using. That is a 1998 K2500 arm to center link, and a 2006 k3500 with a duramax diesel for the idler bracket to arm piece. I got on rockauto and ordered the acdelco professional versions because I ain't got time to **** with idler arms anymore.

Now for the install. There were no instructions. I couldn't find instructions online, just some pictures referencing it not installed so I'm going to make those instructions here:

Notes: I have a 1" body lift. You will probably have to notch out the fan shroud without one. Or just man the **** up and get a 1" body lift. (They don't sell a 1", just get a 2" and cut it in half or like me, find 2 friends and get a 3" and cut it down.)

1: unbolt the 2 1/2 bolts that hold down your abs wire and brake line on the RH crossmember and on the frame rail left and right of the original idler arm.
2: remove the idler arm cotter pin from the centerlink nut
3: remove the idler arm nut from the center link
4: remove the idler arm from teh center link with a pickle fork or whatever magic you might have lying around.
5: remove the 2 bolts that hold the idler to the frame
6: assemble the new idler arm pieces.
7: the bracket comes with a 5/16 allen headed bolt and nut. Bolt the bracket to your vehicles frame (the lower bolt hole) Don't crank it down; you some play to locate it properly.
8: Install the new idler arm into the centerlink, tighten the nut all the way down and put the cotter pin in.
9: The hardest step: rotate the idler arm towards the bracket and you will notice the position of the idler arm probably doesn't correlate with the bracket. Use your best judgement to clock the bracket where it fits best. You need the 2 holes you are about to drill to sit flush with the frame. The other part of this that makes this such a challenge is the hole the bracket uses is slotted. My bracket was about 3/16 of an inch from the bottom where it sat perfectly. I learned this after already drilling my first 2 holes.
10: once the idler bracket holes are drilled crank down on the allen head and nut, use your old idler arm nuts/bolts and crank down on them and the bracket is mounted
11: Install the idler arm assy into the bracket. I used transgel on the inside of the bracket because the fit was interference tight (which is awesome)
12: install the bolts into the idler assy and crank them down
13: buy a new bolt for the frame rail side. The bolt needs to be about 1" longer than the factory bolt. We will then need about 1" worth of washer/spacer here. This will allow the brake line to route around the new idler bracket without rubbing whatsoever. You only need to persuade it a bit once the brackets mounted up. Take the brake line frame rail bracket and remove it from the brake line and flip it around. This bracket will be elevated above the washer at the top of the bolt, followed by the washer followed by the abs wire bracket.
14: the abs wire will be too short. The brackets that hold the abs 3/8 tubing in place can snap apart without unbolting them. Hit the one by the gearbox on the drivers frame rail and work the slack towards the passenger side. Mine was perfect without putting any stress on the wiring with no slack left.

15: I think we are done so go break your aluminum front diff or tie rod ends!



Pictures at original link: UHLCLAN ? View topic - 1ton idler arm

 

Thanks for the information. I'm going to be picking up steel to make my own bracket. Judging by the pictures it's going to be twice as thick but I'll have about $10 in materials. I'm glad you put up a few pitctures in that link. I had not looked at the frame yet and did not notice the angle that is on the front. I suppose those are the holes that must be drilled? It looks like you reuse the bottom hole where the factory idler bolts on, then you drill 2 new holes into the frame?

At least it all worked out and you got the bracket. I did find the part applications on one of their websites before but I was just held up by dimensions and how much material I was going to need. I'll be adding a steering stabilizer while I'm at it.
It should be a nice winter project.