Recently, I've replaced most of the front end steering/suspension in my 2000 Blazer 4x4 4-door. Idler arm, tie rods, upper control arms, ball joints, sway bars, front shocks, CV joints, and Rag joint. After all this and a proper alignment, I still have 2" of play in the wheel and the car wanders quite a bit on the road, especially after hitting a bump or train tracks etc. Last two things to look at are pitman arm and steering box. I can see there is no visible play in the pitman arm. I watch the box as someone rocks the steering wheel back and forth, and I can see that there is no play in the steering shaft rag joint anymore, but that there is limited response in the wheels. So that leaves me to believe that the steering box w/180,000 miles on it has worn quite a bit.

My question is, should I buy a rebuilt box, or rebuild my own? I have the time, and I'd rather save the coin. I'm great at following directions/videos.

Also, I see that most steering box rebuild kits consist of mostly gaskets. Is this all that is needed to get the slop out of my steering wheel?

 

I've rebuilt steering boxes on numerous vehicles. The procedure is basically the same for all. Disassemble and inspect the parts for damage or abnormal "wear," replace any damaged parts (or reject the box and get another), reassemble with new seals and gaskets and set the bearing preload on the input (worm gear) shaft and output (pitman arm) shaft bearings. The adjustments and proper measurements of the adjustments are the critical part of the "rebuild."

For 1997 and later GM S/T body vehicles (S10/S15 pickups, Blazers, GMC Jimmies, Olds Bravadas), two special tools are required for the worm gear shaft. The lock nut wrench (GM tool 43435) is widely available (a lot of knockoffs) for under $20. The adjuster nut wrench (GM or Kent Moore tool 42882) is $100 or more from only a few sources that have it. The job can't be done right without that tool.

For the pitman shaft bearing, you'll also need a very sensitive beam type torque wrench (accurate down to about 6 inch pounds). Technicians who do lots of these (one a week or more) often do this step by feel, but if you don't have the experience, hitting the correct torque preload (7 to 15 inch pounds) by feel will be more difficult. Technicians who have done "a few" of these in the past and don't use a torque wrench usually miss the target range, even though they think they can hit it by feel.

If you have a good relationship with a dealership service manager or shop foreman, you might be able to do all the work up to setting the worm gear preload yourself, take it in and use their tool(s) to set the worm gear thrust bearing preload, and finish the job yourself.

Without access to the correct tools, get a rebuilt box, and hope the rebuilder did the job right.

 

Thanks. I think I'll just get a remanufactured unit! Any recommendations? Lots available on ebay, also have the autozone/napa available.

 

For fleaBay, I've had mixed luck with "core returns". Sometimes it's easy and clean, other times it's a big PITA. The "no core required" online prices can be higher than local sources after returning the core.

I'd compare good local sources (CarQuest is best here, and Napa isn't bad) with online prices at RockAuto for an AC-Delco reman unit. I just checked, and RockAuto has the "Professional" AC-Delco unit (part # 36G0132 ) for $130.xx plus $100 core. The nice thing with RockAuto is they let you use their shipping accounts to buy the return shipping label, so return shipping is less expensive and really easy (a couple clicks on the website and your printer spits out the return shipping label with the correct address, ready to stick on the box). You'll probably only pay $10 or so for the return shipping, and that will just come out of your core refund when they get it back.

If you don't deal with RockAuto already, message me here and I can let you use my discount code there, for another 5% off.

One other advantage to Napa and CarQuest, if there is a warranty issue, and if you have an account with them, the warranty will pay for labor for the replacement, in addition to giving you the replacement part. Ask about warranty at the local sources. Be aware that "It's easy, we do it all the time" is not exactly the best answer. "It's been a long time since I did one, but I think it's pretty easy" is a better answer, indicating better quality parts (fewer returns). My experience with "Lifetime warranties" at big national chains is that the parts aren't very good, and you'll be back for another one (or two, or three).