Ok I know at some point in the next year or so I will probably need new upper balljoints since they are the original from 97. They have been greased well over their life, but I live in the north with tons of salt dumped on the roads so you do the math. My lowers were changed for my inspection like 3 years ago so far my uppers dont seem to have any play. Im looking around at how difficult it will be to change the uppers when the time comes. Some instructions ive seen basically are just drilling out the rivets and unbolt the balljoint. Other instructions invovle that but they also entail removing the hub. What is the at home way of changing the uppers that works. I have the time to do it and most hand tools and an abundance of drills. Also I was wondering what brand I should get when my lowers were done they put in the more expensive napa ones which seem to be spicer professional series. Should I stick with spicer pro's or should I get the slightly more expensive moog uppers.

 

The uppers were much easier to get out than the lowers for me for some reason. You can replace them without removing the hub, just make sure you have a jack under the the lower control arm before removing the upper. Otherwise, the lower will drop with force and madness, mayhem and injury may follow. Both the Napa premiums and Moogs are good choices. Might want to look at Power Performance, also. You won't go wrong with either of these three.

 

Ok this seems to be what ive seen at a few places does this seem right minus the extra part you said of putting a jack under the lower control arm. Also where it mentions a J-36607 ball joint seperator what is this and is it required?
[*]Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.[*]Remove the tire and wheel assembly.[*]When removing the upper ball joint, unplug the wheel speed sensor wiring connector from the upper control arm.[*]Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, then loosen the retaining nut.[*]Position a suitable ball joint separator tool such as J-36607, or equivalent, then carefully loosen the joint in the steering knuckle. Remove the tool and the retaining nut, then separate the joint from the knuckle.[/ol]
After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the brake hose.
[*]Remove the riveted ball joint from the control arm:
[*]Drill a 1/8 in. (3mm) hole, about 1/4 in. (6mm) deep into each rivet.[*]Then use a 1/2 in. (13mm) drill bit, to drill off the rivet heads.[*]Using a pin punch and the hammer, drive out the rivets in order to free the ball joint from the control arm assembly, then remove the ball joint.[/ol][/ol]
To install:

[*]Position the joint in the control arm, then install the joint retaining nuts and bolts. Position the bolts threaded upward from under the control arm. Tighten the ball joint retainers to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).[*]Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install the stud nut and tighten both nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models. On 1995-99 models tighten the lower nut to 79 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and the upper nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.[/ol]
When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
[*]Use a grease gun to lubricate the upper ball joint.[*]If the upper ball joint was removed, attach the wheel speed sensor wiring connector to the upper control arm.[*]Install the tire and wheel assembly.[*]Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.[*]Check and adjust the front end alignment, as necessary.[/ol]

 

you can do the uppers without even removing the hubs, although I would say while you are in there you might as well do uppers and lowers. im gonna have a video of uppers and lowers start to finish up in a few days, I will post a link for everyone. and I just beat the rivets off with a chisel, much better then drilling. go to oriley for your ball joints, they price match now to.

 

Yah I dont have an orileys anywhere near me. Also they are like $15 more per ball joint then the place I was looking at them. Im only doing the uppers since the lowers were done like 4000 miles ago.

 

you shouldn't have a problem then. probably don't even need to tap the axel out, just chisel the rivets off and pickel for that sob ball joint out and you should be set. I wouldn't go for a super cheap ball joint though because the mounting hardware is usually crap and I've read some ball joints are to large to seat themselves in the control arm.