So far I have to disagree with bandidolenny. How long ago did he get his kit? They did a revision not to long ago. If you want to buy tires all the time just crank up the t-bars and do the shackle or add a leaf, I had the cranked t-bar and a jeep spring in the back. I ran 31's. My suspension was stiff as hell and wore suspension and steering components real fast. I could not get an alignment that lasted more than a week. I just put a sl 2 inch lift in. I love the way it drives now. there is the problem of the c-v axle rubbing the shock a little. I'm going to put a new shock mount in on the lower arm about quarter inch forward away from the axle. Granted I've only put about 100 miles or so on since install. I wouldn't do the t-bar crank. You may want to replace your lower control arm bushings, tie rods, lower ball joints, idler and pitman arm when you do lift your ride. even the six inch system. which just drops the mount points of the suspension, leaving it very much riding like stock but,,, the cross member clearance is the same. If all you want is Urban Comando, that is fine. but I have 2 more inches of clearance with the 2 inch kit. And 2 more inches of supsension travel. It does make a difference in the woods and in the mud. those cross members can act like a plow. Remember your ride is 11 yrs old and all those suspension/ steering components are probably wore out. replace those whenever you do your lift or do it later.

 

ok thanks

so shackles are for the rear,
and tbar crank for both,
body lift all around,
wont the front look smaller?
and how can i get my stock rims to pop out a little?buy new rims?

 

shackles are for the rear like you said then a tbar crank is for the front and with this combo your front end might be a lil lower than the rear but nothing drastic. if you want a wider track you have two options 1. buy new rims with less back spacing 2. add spacers. just remeber the more ur tires stick out the more likely you are to rub.

 

ok im still looking around.
i really want to go with a 3 inch suspension lift.
what exactly is a spindle lift?

 

1) My kit is 7 months old. No they did not address the inner cv shaft angle.

2) 100 miles eh? You will be replacing the cv shafts due to inner boot failure within a few thousand miles. They will last longer after that because the new rubber is more pliable.

3) Do not forget that you can crank the bars on the 6" kit as well to do exactly what you are talking about with the 2" kit. (once again at the expense of cv shaft angle)

4) You do not have 2 more inches of clearance than someone with cranked t-bars... you have 1/2" more.

5) Jack up your front end from the frame so that your tires are hanging... now try to spin the front tires by hand. Feel the cv shaft binding? You do not have 2 more inches of "useable" suspension travel in both directions... this is how cv shafts and aluminum diff cases get broken.

I have a 2" suspension lift and it's not bad... but I have seen others with 6" suspension lifts and believe me, that is the way to go. With a 6" lift and a 2" body lift you will be able to run 35"s and have way more ground clearance than me with my 2" sl and 31"s. Of course the real deal would be a SFA conversion but that is a whole other can of worms. lol, good luck guys.

 

This is some good info sorry to jump on the thread but I am to in the same boots ur in and hereing this make me want crank the t bars and have some fun

 

I'm with bandidolenny on this one. Theres a reason the t-bar on the truck is the way it is. I wouldnt mess with it.

 

Cranking the TBars up 1.5" is safe, but no more than that.

 

Hey, you ZR2 guys are lucky... you got 31"s from the factory. Look at what the rest of us have to do to get there. Crank away! LOL

 

any amount of lift you get from cranking the tb's will result in premature wear in the front end parts even a 1.5" crank will cause extra wear the reason ppl suggest only cranking the tb's 1.5" is because it seems to be a happy medium.