ZR2 Rear Sagging
#1
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 21

I just bought a 2000 Blazer ZR2 and i noticed the rear is sitting much lower than the the front and i cant stand the look of a saggy rear. So my question is how can i fix this and where do i get the parts from?
#2
I believe every ZR2 you will see will have that same back end sag. It has to do with the suspension of the ZR2. I just put an add-a-leaf from JCWhitney on mine. It raised it up 3/4", which wasn't as much as I hoped to perfectly balance it out, but it was noticeable and did even it out some.
For free you could always look into cranking up the rear torsion bars to even it out. It will increase wear on your truck though.
Lots of people suggest getting shackles from Daystar.
http://www.shop.synergyoffroad.com/Lifts_c10.htm
You can get shackles or add-a-leafs from them.
For free you could always look into cranking up the rear torsion bars to even it out. It will increase wear on your truck though.
Lots of people suggest getting shackles from Daystar.
http://www.shop.synergyoffroad.com/Lifts_c10.htm
You can get shackles or add-a-leafs from them.
#3
A quick search will answer all of your questions. This has been covered many, many, many times before.
Oh, and welcome to the forum!
There are NO tbars on the rear of any blazers. Only leaf springs.
Oh, and welcome to the forum!
There are NO tbars on the rear of any blazers. Only leaf springs.
Last edited by swartlkk; 06-05-2010 at 09:19 PM. Reason: **Combining Consective Posts** - Please use the EDIT feature to add information to your post if another member has yet to reply.
#4
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 21

So whats my best bet shackles or add a leafs? What i been reading the 2" shackles work pretty good and i think thats what ill be doing. Where have you guys gone to buy yours?
Last edited by Lumpo; 06-05-2010 at 09:37 PM.
#5
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 21

I was looking around at Advanced and they offer a shackle kit with holes drilled in it to adjust the height. Anyone use these? Also do i have to lower the gas tank to get the old shackles off?
#6
BF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 3,133

I have them. they work great. I didn't have to move my gas tank but then again you have a 2 door so i'm not sure
#7
I've got 2" shackles in mine and didn't have to remove the gas tank, although things where pretty tight up there. I can't remember if I had to loosen the gas tank shield and drop it down a bit or not. Once you get under there you'll know what you need to do.
The advantage of shackles over add-a-leaf is the ride will not change. If you like how the suspension is currently, go with shackles. If you want a little stiffer suspension, go with the add-a-leaf.
Or the third alternative is to have your springs re-arched or replaced with new. The first two option are cheaper, though.
The advantage of shackles over add-a-leaf is the ride will not change. If you like how the suspension is currently, go with shackles. If you want a little stiffer suspension, go with the add-a-leaf.
Or the third alternative is to have your springs re-arched or replaced with new. The first two option are cheaper, though.
#8
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 21

I actually went to my local steel yard and found some nice 3/8" steel flat stock and im just going to make my own. Thanks guys.
#9
Beginning Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Baileyville, Maine
Posts: 27

ive seen people take the main leaf out of a spring pack and stick it below your main leaf. it was done on a jeep cherokee with two s-10 main leafs. probably get them at junkyard. might cost 10 bucks. then u need new center bolts and maybe longer u bolts. it lifted the jeep up probly 1.5 inches. made a significant difference.
#10
New Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 65

I wouldn't use flat stock steel in place of a leaf spring. Although [cold rolled (steel that is rolled out in a low temp.)or hot rolled steel (steel that is rolled out in a high- just under melting temp.)] is flexible, it will crack or tear if flexed repeatedly. Use add-a-leafs or add some used leafs from a yard as suggested. There is a reason that they call the steel used to make them (spring steel), it goes through a heat treating process that gives it the ability to spring back to a set shape after repeated flexing without cracking or tearing. Of course everything has it's limits or we'd never hear of broken leaf springs. Old age or too muck weight will break anything!!
Trust me, I work in a tooling division for a foundry that does their own heat treating. It's some neat science in how you can start with similar stock, run it through a different process and have totally different results of hardness, fracture rates, ect.
Don't use flat steel as a leaf spring, it will cost you somewhere in the long run and me be a hazard to your own safety!! The used junk yard springs is the safe cheap route.
Trust me, I work in a tooling division for a foundry that does their own heat treating. It's some neat science in how you can start with similar stock, run it through a different process and have totally different results of hardness, fracture rates, ect.
Don't use flat steel as a leaf spring, it will cost you somewhere in the long run and me be a hazard to your own safety!! The used junk yard springs is the safe cheap route.





