Took my 01 2door blazer 4.3 5 speed to the track
 

Well guys and girls I took my blazer to the track tonight.well my best of 2 runs was 16.24 all I have done is a hacked up air box.here in San Antonio we have something called midnight madness on Saturdays where we run till 1 a.m and 10 to get in and run.its going on next Saturday too.youtube link in the comments but not much to look at lol

- Video Tube for YouTube - iPhone/iPad


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Man am I jealous. Racing and the priest playing. I got snow and cold and no track for at least 2 months.

What was your MPH and 60' time?

Two things

1) That is pretty dang fast. Stock Firebirds, Camaros and Mudstains from the late 70's and pretty much all the 80's ran fairly close to that.
2) You just showed anybody who "never has done a burn out in a blazer" that it can be done.

Thanks buddy yea burn out can be done,I've done a couple in the back roads of cibolo lol(country town in tx)and ill post up a pic of my slip right now.yea it was 72 yesterday for the high but it was about 40 at the track last night.

You know what it's not working,I'm not sure how to post pics so ill just write it out. Dial in:.00 reaction:.7787 60ft:2.3562 330 ft:6.7068 1/8mile:10.3658 1/8 mph:67.18 1000 Et:13.5331 1/4 Et:16.2439 1/4 mph 82.81 sorry I know it's hard to read I'm on a cell phone and don't know how to break it down

It works for me. Thanks for posting. Keep working on it. I wonder what rear gear you have with that 5sp.

I can just smell that....aaahhhhh

I know huh lol(George Lopez voice)lol le white and CAB I got a gu6 aka 3.42 with the g80 from the factory crank windows and no power locks what were they thinking haha

Next Saturday is midnight madness again.i think I'm gonna install my c5 electric fans and empty my trunk/hatch and remove my spare and see if I can dip into the 15s

Only go with no more than 1/4 tank of gas also. -100 lbs = .1 drop in et typically.

Find out what rpm a stock 4.3 makes max hp/torque at and try to be at that rpm going through the traps. If it is right you should basically shift at the 1320 mark. Either top of third or top of fourth. I am sure somebody on here knows the specs.

When you see the last yellow light let her rip. By the time the truck gets moving the green will light and you should cut a sub .600 light. Basically count the yellow lights. 1,2,3 go. (For consistency always turn on the first stage light and then slowly creep foreword until the second light comes on and stop immediately) It won't help your et but if whoever your racing cuts a bad light and runs close to your time they won't catch/pass you until your way down the track.

Man I so miss racing.

Thanks for the tips yea I ran that suburban twice and he was always a half a car in front of me he always got to the line first and was killing my take off because midnight madness is heads up racing by the time I creep to the line and try and launch its already go time.what rpm should I launch at given that it is a all stock motor with the 3.42s?i found some typhoon manifolds and cross over pipe on the Austin craigslist I might just have to go get them but 500 bucks??idk if that's a good price or not

Tip: drive AROUND the water, back up til youre NOT in the water, cause water in your wheel well really raises your 60'times
Tip: remove front sway bar and shocks but be VERRY careful at the turn out.
Tip: when index racing go deep if your on a pro tree.

Ok cool and the front sway bar and shocks are just a weight reduction or is there a bigger reason behind this??its not that hard to remove just 6 bolts or something like that.when you say go deep are talking about the Rpms I launch from??thanks lewhite

Yes I saw that when I looked at your slip/video. If you could shave .2 to .25 you might have beat him at the big end. If he stages first than that gives you the advantage of not staging until your ready. You get to decide when to start the race. I prefer the tree to be on my left. For some reason it seems easier to watch the lights.

Ideally you would launch around max torque the engine makes but that probably isn't a good idea with a stock clutch. I would try to launch it as high as possible w/o spinning the tires or smoking your clutch. If I had to guess it would be around 1500-1800 but that might be a bit much for regular tires. What rpm did you launch at?

Freeing up the exhaust is always a good thing. As far as the typhoon manifolds I wouldn't buy them unless somebody knows for a fact they flow better than what you got and they fit. You might be able to buy headers for it cheaper.

Oh yeah, I wouldn't run back to back times with a stock clutch. Give it some time to cool between runs. Years ago I learned the hard way!

1) Driving around the water is a good idea, but not necessary, but the water does make it easier to smoke your tires and that makes it easier on your clutch. Try to skip the burnout altogether. That starting line is real sticky and you might not have traction issues.

2) No need to remove shocks/sway bar. This helps transfer weight to the rear tires. Normally reserved for high horse power cars/trucks. Do that when you have a 500hp small block between the wheel wells.:icon_mrgreen:

3) You won't see a pro tree on grudge night. If some promods show up they will see a pro tree. Don't worry about staging deep at this point. Try the procedure I told you and adjust your "go" time by the reaction time of your previous run. The most important thing is staging consistently. Deep staging puts your front tires closer to tripping the start clocks.

Here is why I am telling you to stage and count.

The 3 amber lights march down in a .5 second sequence with the green coming on .5 second after the last amber.
You leave on the last amber because it will take your truck about .5 seconds to move enough to trip the start clock. A lot happens in that .5 seconds before green. It will take a few times but you will understand. You may even red light a few times.
I had a car that when I staged, as I told you to do, I would leave at the moment the last yellow went out so it was basically when the yellow was out but the green wasn't on. I could consistently cut sub .52 lights all day IF everything else went right, mostly traction. This was when I was actually bracket racing.

Thanks CAB that helps and pretty much sums up the questions I had thanks.i can't wait to have 500 horses lol.there was a newer s10 out there running 12.4s and drove it there there what I would like a 12 second blazer

Yup Cab maybe I got a little over enthusiastic about the tips coming from 6.30 altered experance (check my page). Removing the sway and shocks did lower the 60' on my C6 vette, but it doesnt have ANY forward traction!

Lol yea I'm putting around compared to that like a stand still

Do h think that punching cats would benifit me or no??

I and the typhoon manifolds are for putting a turbo on the 4.3 like in UR50SLO write up on full throttle v6 web site that guy had a 4 door 4x4 blazer with the stock typhoon turbo and I think he was in the low 14s at the time of the write up.

In a stock configuration gutting the cat probably won't do much. I doubt the gain would be worth not having a cat unless you really don't need one in your area and can deal with the check engine light.

Running the turbo would be cool. I use to have an 89 TTA and I can say that nothing beats the spooling of a turbo and the hell that it will unleash, especially with a trans brake.

For what its worth I think you got about as much as possible out of your truck in stock form. I am guessing, don't have enough info track elevation, temp, race weight etc, etc, but I would say you got about 180hp or so to the rear wheels and you ran 82mph at 16.2 et. Pretty dang impressive with some darn good shifting!

Can't wait to see Saturday's results and videos. Hell I am about ready to hop on a plane........

Well come on down lol my dads coming in from collage station tx to run his c5 zo6 so that el be cool to see.scoot over dad I'm driving haha yea I don't need cats welcome to texas lol,but if its not going to help me much Im not gonna pay somebody to weld it back up.

Well a bad run for that car should be mid 12's at well over 100 probably closer to 110. I have seen some stock, they did have drag radials, ls6's run high 11's at dang near 120.

Yea he's likes it a lot,time to run it.its his second one he got this one from corvette world in dallas,and he said this one fells way faster then his first zo6 so maybe it's got some goodies in it.update for the blazer I thought I'd change the plugs in it before I go to the track 2morrow I pulled the old ones out and holy crap they had 2 different style plugs in it.wtf to that lol 3 auto lites and 3 Bosch supers the auto lites look like they were raking out there all light brown around the base of the plug you can see the pic.anywho I put ac Delco Iradiums in it and its a whole different motor or feels like it lol at half throttle it just climbs like a vtec or something.im glad I changed the plugs.but it's hard to tell if its different at wot ill find out 2morrow,gotta get a 15.999 haha http://instagram.com/p/jksJa-SUey/